Paul's December 2025 Fly of the Month

 Carrot Soft Hackle Nymph

Hook:  Size #12-#14 2X long nymph or wet fly hook.

Thread:  6/0 Uni-Thread in Black or Orange. 

Tail:  Black Hen Hackle Fibers.

Body:  Orange Silk or Floss.

Thorax:  Small Black Chenille.

Hackle:  Brown or Black Hen Hackle.

I love fishing soft hackles and I love fishing flies with Orange features.  It’s a ‘classic’ wet fly that I’ve found particularly effective during sulphur and caddis hatches.  I’ll usually pair it with another wet fly and fish it in tandem.

To tie this fly start your thread behind the eye and lay a thread base to the bend of the hook.  Cut off the tag end of your thread.  Next, tie in your tail of Black Hen Feather fibers.  Use 10-12 fibers and tie them in so that they extend beyond the hook bend a ‘hook gap’ in length.  Wrap your thread forward over the tail butts to create a tapered uniform body. 

Now tie in your Orange Floss.  Tie it in at the front of the body and wrap down to the bend.  Bring your thread back up the shank and leave it approximately 2 ‘eye’ lengths behind the eye.  Wrap and form the body with floss and tie it off with the black thread.  You should have created a nice, tapered body. 

Next, for your thorax, tie in a length of Small Black Chenille.  Take 2 wraps of the Chenille around the hook shank and tie it off.  Cut off the butt end of the Chenille.

Prepare a Black Hen Hackle to represent the legs of the fly.  Strip the bottom feather fibers from the feather.  Tie the feather in, concave side facing down towards the hook. Take some tight securing wraps.  Take 2 wraps around the hook shank while preening the feather fibers rearward.   Tie the feather off and clip off the excess hackle.  Take additional securing wraps while stroking the hackle fibers rearward.  Create a nice, tapered fly head.  Whip finish the head and apply some head cement. 

Savage Flies has a great video on how the tie the Carrot Nymph below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

 

Paul's November 2025 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Sexy Walt's Worm

Hook:  Trout Legend Jig Hook (or Jig Hook of choice), Size #14.

Thread:  70 denier or 8\0 Fluorescent Orange.

Bead:  3 mm tungsten bead, in Silver or color of choice.

Rib:  Pearlescent Krystal Flash or thin Sulky Opalescent Tinsel.

Weight (Optional):  8-10 wraps of .020 lead-free wire.

Body:  Natural Hares-mask dubbing mixed with Antron.

Hot Spot/Collar:  Fluorescent Orange Thread.

Walt's worm was developed in 1984 by a fly tyer named Walt Young of Altoona, PA.  This fly is so simple, yet it’s in my top 5 flies of all time.  Why is it so effective?  Well, it can imitate a variety of things, including sow bugs, scuds, and fresh water shrimp.  It is also an excellent representation of a caddis pupa.  Try tying it in a Natural Hares dubbing and Olive Hares dubbing.  For an alternative ‘Hot Spot’ you can also use Chartreuse Thread.

To tie this fly, insert the hook point into the small hole on the bead.  Slide it forward down the hook shank to the eye.  Next, take 5-10 wraps of lead free wire around the hook shank.  ‘Helicopter’ off the excess wire and slide the wraps against the bead.  This should lock it in place.  Start your thread on the hook shank immediately behind the wire.  Take securing wraps rearward, then cut off the tag end of the thread.  Now take thread wraps over the wire up to the bead and back down the hook shank. Next, tie in your Pearlescent Tinsel.  It should extend beyond the back of the hook bend.  After securing it use your thread to create a smooth ramp up to your wire. 

Now, with your thread back at the bend of the hook, dub a slender dubbing noodle with your Hares Ear/Antron Dubbing.  You can make your own dubbing mixture or purchase one of the many commercial mixtures that are available.  With your dubbing noodle, take wraps forward to create a smooth carrot shaped body.  End it immediately behind the bead.

With your ribbing material, take open spiral wraps up the body of the fly.  Tie it off behind the bead.  Cut off the tag end.  Secure your tying thread with additional wraps and whip finish to create your ‘Hot Spot’.  Finally, cut off the tag end of your thread.  

Tightlinesvideo has a great instructional video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's November 2025 Fly of the Month

 White Estaz Minkie Streamer

Hook:  TMC 5263 or streamer hook of choice, Sizes #4 to #10. 

Tying thread:   Danville 6/0 White or Black.

Wing:  White Rabbit Zonker with barred black grizzly lines.

Body:  White Pearl Medium Estaz.

Throat: Red Saddle Hackle Fibers.

Head: Wraps of Black Danville 6/0 Black, finished with UV Resin, Hard as Nails, or Head Cement. 

I love fishing ‘Bunny Flies’.  Skins come in a variety of colors.  If you so desire, you can add weight to this fly with Bead Heads, Cones, or Dumbbell Eyes.  Please be aware that this can sometimes be a very heavy fly to cast.  The Rabbit tends to hold water, and additional weight may make the fly a little ‘hingy’ when casting.  One way to cut down on this is to shorten your leader.

This is one of my favorite ‘White’ Streamers.  The Estaz makes the belly sparkle, and as with all Zonker patterns, the Rabbit undulates in the water.  I like to tie this fly on a size # 6 streamer hook.  Once your hook is in the vice, start your thread approximately ¼ hook shank behind the eye.  After making securing wraps, cut off the butt end of the thread and wrap down to the bend of the hook. 

Now, prepare your Zonker Strip to length.  The ‘raw hide’ bottom of the Zonker should extend a hook gap length beyond the bend of the hook.  On my streamers, I don’t like to make the tail too long to prevent short strikes.  The Zonker should extend from beyond the bend to the eye.  You’re better off making it longer than shorter.  You can always trim the excess off later.  For the rear tie in point, separate the Zonker Fur to establish a clean ‘tie in’ point.  I find that moistening my fingers helps to separate the Fur.  Next, take 10-12 wraps of thread around the hook shank and Zonker strip.  Lift your Zonker Strip and take a few securing wraps in front of it.  At this point I usually invert the streamer and add a drop of head cement to the rear tie in point.

Next, prepare a strip of your White Estaz for the belly.  Strip some of the flash fibers off the end to expose the string core.  Tie it on the hook shank in front of and against the Zonker Strip.  After securing it, bring your thread 2 eye lengths behind the eye.  Wrap the Estaz forward with touching wraps and tie it off.  Cut off the butt end of the Estaz.  At this point if you are not using black thread, tie off your existing thread off and start your black thread behind the eye. 

After securing the Black Thread, invert your fly.  With 12-14 fibers from a Red Saddle, tie in your Red Throat.  The Throat should extend from behind the eye to ¾ the way to the hook point.  Finally, bring your Zonker Strip forward and tie it in behind the eye.  A critical step in tying this fly is to make sure you have prepared the Zonker Strip to be long enough.  You can always trim off excess.  Create a nice Black Head with your thread.  When done whip finish the Head, cut off your excess thread, and add a drop of Head Cement to the Head of the Fly.

Trident Fly Fishing has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's October 2005 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Idaho Stank Nymph

Hook:  Jig Hook, Size #14.

Bead:  Black Slotted Tungsten Bead to match hook size.

Tail:  Cuq De Leon Fibers.

Body:  Pink Veevus Body Quill.

Red Hot Spots:  Red or Pink Sharpie Magic Marker.

Fly Finish:  UV Finish or Hard as Nails.

This is a fly from Fly Fish Food and one of my ‘magic’ flies.  When it’s working, it’s going to land a lot of fish.  It’s also an easy tie.  You can tie up a lot of these fast.  Try them in smaller sizes as the season wears on. 

To tie this fly begin by placing your bead on the hook and your hook in the vice.  You are going to tie this fly by placing your Pink Veevus Body Quill in a fly-tying bobbin.  There is no thread involved with tying this fly.  Next, start your Body Quill behind the bead and take securing wraps.  You want to create a dam behind your bead to seat it in place.  Once you’ve accomplished this, unwrap your Quill by rotating/spinning your bobbin.  Do this a few times when you're tying this nymph.  This will prevent the material from breaking when tying.  It's more delicate than thread.  Now, bring your Body Quill to the mid point of the hook shank.  You are going to tie in a few fibers of Cuq De Leon for your tail.  The tail should extend approximately a hook gap beyond the bend of the hook. 

Form a thin tapered body with your Body Quill.  With a Red Sharpie Marker create a ‘hot spot’ at the rear of the fly.  Once done continue to build the fly body to a slim tapered shape.  Leave the Body Quill behind the bead.  You are now going to create a second ‘hot spot’ behind the bead.  Carefully color an inch or two of hanging Quill material with the Red Sharpie.  Whip finish it behind the bead to create your hot spot’.  After whip finishing cut off your Quill material.  Finally, coat the body with UV Resin or Hard As Nails.  My personal choice is to your Hard as Nails.  Sometimes the UV Resin gets a little goopy and hard to manage on small flies.

Fly Fish Food has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

 If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month, I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's October 2025 Fly of the Month

 Ritz D Nymph

Hook:  Nymph Hook Size #12. 

Tying thread:   6/0 Black.

Rib:  Copper Wire

Tail:  5-6 Pheasant Tail Fibers

Body: Peacock Herl.

Thorax:  Copper Wire wrapped around the hook shank.

Wing Case:  Butt ends of the Pheasant Tail Fibers used for the tail.

This fly was designed by Fly Tyer Charles Ritz. It’s a ‘classic’ nymph and has been around for a while.  Many Flyfishers like fishing this fly in heavily fished waters.  It’s an alternative to bead head nymphs which experienced trout may recognize and avoid.  It’s also got a more ‘natural’ profile and it gets down deep with its copper wire. 

To tie this fly begin by placing your hook in the vice.  Start your thread behind the eye of the hook and take 5-6 securing wraps.  Cut off the tag and wrap down to the bend.  Next, tie in the Pheasant Tail Fibers for your tail.  The tail is a little heavier than most patterns because the butt ends of the fibers will be used for your wing case.  The tail should extend about a hook gap length beyond the bend.  Next, tie in the copper wire rib.  You are going to need at least a length of 5-6” of wire which will extend beyond the bend of the hook.  Next, tie in 2-3 strands of Peacock Herl.  They will also extend beyond the bend of the hook.   Wrap your thread forward covering the butt ends of the Pheasant Fibers, while anchoring the Copper wire and Peacock Herl.  Stop your thread 2/3rds down the hook shank, leaving enough room for your Thorax.  Do not cut off the butt ends of the Pheasant Fibers.  They will be used for the Wing Case.

Wrap your Peacock Herl forward covering your thread base and forming the body.  Tie it off and cut off the butt ends.  Next, rib your fly with the Copper Wire making spiral wraps up the body.  Tie off the Copper Wire but do not cut off the remaining end.  Bend back your Peasant Tail Fibers rearward.  Bring your thread behind the eye of the hook.  Now bring your Copper Wire forward, and with touching wraps, form a bulbus Thorax.  Tie off the remaining wire.  ‘Helicopter’ off the butt end.  With your thread still behind the hook eye, bring your Pheasant Tail Fibers over your Thorax to form a Wing Case.  Tie off the Fibers, cut off the butt ends, and whip finish the fly.  I like to put a drop of head cement or UV on the wing case for durability. 

There is a great video by Bert Kerstens below on how to tie this fly:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month, I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's September 2025 Bonus Fly of the Month

 2 Minute Anchovy

(A great crossover fly for Albies & Stripers)

Hook:  2/0 Mustad Tarpon Style hook. 

Tying thread:   210 Denier Flat Waxed Nylon.

Weight:  5 wraps of .035 Lead or lead free wire.

Tail:  A sparse pinch of White Craft Fur,

over which is a sparse pinch of Brown Craft Fur, over which

is a sparse pinch of Bait Fish Back (or choice of Pearlescent Tinsel).        

Body: Mylar Tubing.

This is a great ‘crossover fly for Albies and Stripers.  It’s an extremely easy fly to tie.  Friends and I have caught fish with it from Western CT to the Cape with it.

To tie this fly take 5-6 wraps of .035 wire around the hook shank.  Butt it up against the eye of the hook.  Start your thread and cover the wire wraps and hook shank, leaving your thread at the start of the bend.  Take a sparse pinch of white Craft Fur and tie it in at the bend. It should equal 2 hook shank lengths beyond the bend.  Trim off the butt end.  Next, take a sparse pinch of Brown Craft Fur and tie it in above the White.  Cut off the butt end.  Next take a sparse pinch of Bait Fish Back or Pearlescent Tinsel and tie it in on top of your Craft Fur Tail.  

At your tail ‘tie in point’, tie in your Mylar tubing.  It should extend well beyond the eye of the hook so that you can push it back over itself to create your body.  Once you’ve tied in the tubing, give it a few ‘half hitches’ and cut off your thread.  I usually add a drop of UV or Super Glue over the thread wraps.

Next, push the mylar tubing over itself to create your body.  It should cover the entire hook shank extending to the eye of the hook.  Start your thread behind the eye of the hook, over the mylar tubing.  After taking securing wraps, trim off the excess Mylar tubing behind the eye.  Take more securing wraps behind the eye, whip finish the fly and add a drop of head cement or UV Resin.

Field & Stream has a 'kewl' video on how to tie this fly below:

 

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month, I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's September 2025 Fly of the Month

 Hogan's Hot Butted Zonker

Hook:  Ahrex TP650 Size #2.

Thread:  Black White or Olive 6/0.

Bead:   5.5 Hot Orange Tungsten Bead.

Weight:  (Optional)  Wraps of .25 Lead free wire.

Butt:  White or Fluorescent Orange Thread with Hot Orange UV Fly Finish.

Tail/Top:  Rabbit Strip Zonker.

Body:  Spawn Mega White/Silver Dubbing or Senyo’s Lasor Dub.

Hackle:  Olive Hen Back Feather or Saddle.

Head/Collar:  Spawn Black Mega Dubbing or Senyo’s Lasor Dub.

This fly was developed to mimic a small bait fish. I find it’s a great fly for deep water.  You can use a spay rod to swing it, or a single hand rod when fishing it.  It’s proved to be very effective on the Housatonic River.  

To tie this fly place your bead on the hook.  The hook eye on the Ahrex TP650 is angled down at 26 degrees.  I found the hook to be extremely hard to find.  If you can’t find them, use a standard streamer hook.  With your bead in place, take some wraps of lead-free wire around the hook shank.  Butt it up against the bead to lock it in place.  I usually coat the wraps with UV Resin or super glue for durability. 

Next, you are going to form your Hot Orange Butt.  On the bend of the hook, just beyond the shank, take thread wraps of thread to form a base for your UV Resin.  The thread base should be approximately 2-3 hook eyes in length. Tie off your thread, add a drop of Orange UV Resin and cure.  I usually do this in stages with 2-3 coats of UV Resin to build a nice bead.  I’ll usually prepare my hooks with Beads, Weight, and Hot Butts, prior to completing the rest of the pattern.

Next, prepare and align your Rabbit strip on top of the hook shank.  It should be approximately a hook shank and a half in length.  I usually tie mine to extend a little further than a hook gap in length beyond the bend of the hook.  Preen the Rabbit strip hairs apart to create a tie in point.   Take 8-10 securing wraps with your thread.  Lift the rabbit strip and take some securing wraps in front of the tie in point.  To lock it in place you can half hitch your thread over the Zonker and hook shank or apply a drop of UV resin.  I do both.  Sweep the excess Rabbit strip reward.

Next, lightly dub a noodle of Spawn White Mega Dub for your body.  As an alternative to this, you can create a dubbing loop with the material for your body.  Once on the hook shank pull the material down towards the hook point.  I use my fingers and a toothbrush to accomplish this.   Trim it even with the hook point of your fly.

After completing your body, bring your Rabbit strip forward.  Like you did at the rear, part the hair fibers to create a tie in point at the head.  Remember to leave enough room for your Hackle and Collar.  Now take wraps to secure your Rabbit strip to the hook shank.  Cut the excess Rabbit strip off at an angle in line with the hook eye. Cover the butt end with thread wraps creating a tapered head. 

Next, prepare your Hackle by stroking the fibers of the feather rearward.  You are going to tie it in by the tip of the feather.  Take 3-4 wraps of the feather, tie it off and cut off the butt end.  Finally, dub a Collar/Head of Black Spawn Mega Dubbing between the Bead and your hackle.  Whip finish the fly behind the bead and you’re done. 

Loon outdoors has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .