Paul's December 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Kennebago Smelt

Hook:  Mustad 3655A or preferred Size #2-#8 Streamer hook 4X Long. 

Thread:  UTC 70 Denier Black.

Body:  French Oval Tinsel in Silver; palmered over Silver Mylar Tinsel.

Belly:  Sparse White Bucktail.

Throat:  Yellow Saddle Hackle Fibers.

Wing:  Sparse Red Bucktail; over which is Sparse Blue Bucktail; over which is a  Black Blood Quill Marabou Feather; over which are 5-6 Fibers of Peacock Hurl.

I love streamers that have marabou incorporated in their wings.  This is one of my favorites.  It was developed by a Maine Game Warden guide named Bud Wilcox.  It was primarily used for landlocked salmon but it’s a great ‘trout’ fly as well.

Begin by placing your hook in the vise and starting your thread an eye length and a half behind the hook eye.  Make touching wraps back to the bend.  Cut off your tag. Tie in your Oval Tinsel Rib by first stripping the end of the Oval Tinsel to expose the center core.  This will reduce the size of your ‘tie in’ point.  Next, tie in your Silver Mylar Tinsel.  Bring your thread back to the initial tie in point, creating an even thread body on the way.  Wrap your body with the Silver Mylar Tinsel and capture it with your thread.  Making ‘open spiral’ turns rib the body of the fly with your Oval Tinsel.  Capture and cut off the tag end. 

You are now going to tie in the White Bucktail Belly of the fly.  It should extend just past the bend of the hook.  Once secured, cut off the butt ends of the Bucktail.  Next, tie in your throat of Yellow Saddle Hackle Fibers on top of the Bucktail.  Using approximately 10-14 fibers, your throat should extend halfway down the underside of the hook shank.  Cut off the excess butt ends.  

Next, tie in your wing of sparse Red and Blue Bucktail.  Tie in the Red Bucktail first (8-10 fibers), over which is Blue Bucktail (8-10 fibers).  They should extend past the bend of the hook and even with your belly.  After securing your Bucktail and cutting off the butt ends, tie in your Black Marabou Feather.  It will be the same length as the Bucktail. After securing it cut off the butt end and with your thread create a smooth uniform head.  Top this with 5-6 strands of Peacock Hurl.  Cut off the butt ends and create a unform head.  Whip finish the head and coat it with head cement.  Your fly is complete. 

 Trident Fly Fishing has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's December 2023 Fly of the Month

 Zola Bug

Hook:  Fulling Mill 5045 Jig Force Barbless Hook or jig hook of choice Size #14.

Bead:  7/64” 2.8 mm Slotted Metallic Purple Bead.

Tail:  Black or Dark Spanish Coq De Leon.

Thread/Body:  SemperFli Nano Silk Ultra Fine 100 Dener 6/0 Black Thread.

Rib:  Purple Flexi-Floss or Life Flex. 

Thorax/Hot Spot:  UV Lavender or Purple Ice Dub.

I love using nymphs with purple in the winter.  Rainbows especially love them.  This fly was also developed for stained and off-colored water, but I've used it in all types of water conditions.  Plain & simple, IT JUST CATCHES FISH!

To tie this fly place your jig hook and bead in the vice.  Start your thread behind the bead.  Give it a few securing wraps.  Cut off the excess thread.  Wrap your thread down to the bend.  Next, tie in your Coq De Leon Tail.  It should be no longer than a hook shank length beyond the bend.  Cut off the butt ends.  Now tie in a strand of Purple Flexi-Floss or Life Flex. I like to capture it behind the bead and wrap it down to the bend. 

Create a uniform tapered body with your thread and leave it behind the bead.  Now wrap your rib forward creating a segmented body.  Tie it off behind the bead and cut off the excess.  Next, you are going to create a Purple Collar behind the bead by dubbing a slim noodle of UV Ice Dub.  Take a couple wraps behind the bead, whip finish the fly, and you’re done.   

Fly Fish Food has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's November 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 The Fly Formerly Known as 'Prince'

Hook:  Tiemco 3769 Size #10-#18 or preferred Nymph Hook. 

Bead:   Gold Bead to match hook size.

Thread:  Orange or Red UTC 70 Denier.

Tail:  Brown Goose or Turkey Biots.  Also a ‘tag’ of Orange or Red Thread.

Rib:  Gold or Silver Oval Tinsel.

Body:  Peacock Herl.

Collar:  Natural Partridge or Brown Indian Hen.

Wings:  Large Silver Holographic Tinsel or 2 Strands of Pearl Krystal Flash (It’s what I use and prefer).

If you fish the Housatonic, you definitely want to have a Prince nymph in your box.  The addition of a ‘Flash’ wing can sometimes increase the productivity of the ‘Prince’ nymph.

To tie this fly begin by placing your bead on the hook and your hook in the vice.  Start your red thread behind the bead and take some securing wraps.  Cut off the tag end and make touching wraps down shank and halfway down the bend.  The red thread will serve as a tag on the fly.  Next, tie in two Brown or Tan Goose Biots for the tail.  Match the Biots so that they splay outward.  They should extend approximately ½ hook shank beyond the bend.  After making a few securing wraps, adjust the Biots so that they extend symmetrically beyond the hook bend.  After trimming off the butt ends of the Biots, bring your thread up behind the Bead.  Tie in your Oval Tinsel and wrap down to the bend. 

Next, tie in 3-6 Strands of Peacock Herl at your Biot tie in point.  Bring your thread up behind the Bead, leaving a little ‘eye length’ space.  Wrap your Peacock Herl forward using touching wraps to create the body.  Tie it off and cut off the butt ends.  Now, palmer and counter wrap your Rib forward and tie it off.  Cut off the butt end.  Next, tie in your Collar feather by the tip.  Trim and cut off the tip.  Using your hackle pliers, take 2-3 ‘wet fly’ wraps around the hook shank.  Stroke the feather fibers back as you wrap.  Capture and tie off the stem with a couple wraps.  Cut off the excess. You are now going to tie in your Holographic Tinsel or Krystal Flash wings.  Normally on a ‘Prince Nymph’ the wings would consist of White Biots.  The flash wings supercharge this fly.  I prefer to use Pearl Krystal Flash for the wings.  Tie your wings in behind the bead.  They should extend slightly beyond the body.  Tie them off and whip finish the fly, creating a small hot spot collar behind the bead.

InTheRiffle has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's November 2023 Fly of the Month

 Paul's Housatonic Crayfish

Hook:  Size #4 3X long Streamer hook. Can also be tied in larger sizes.

Tying thread:   Brown Uni-thread or 6/0.

Weight:  6-10 wraps of .25 lead.

Claws:  3-4 strands of Pearl Krystal Flash over which are 2 Brown Matched Marabou Feathers.

Antennae:  2 Black Pieces of Krystal Flash.

Thorax/Carapace:  Medium Tan/Brown or Coffee Chenille, topped with 6-8 pieces of Peacock Herl.

Legs:  Brown Saddle Hackle, palmered around the Thorax/Carapace.
Abdomen/Body:  Medium Brown Chenille.

Tail:  Brown Swiss Straw tied behind and on top of the eye and fanned open. Coated with ‘Hard as Nails’.

I developed this fly close to 40 years ago.  It was all due to my lack of expertise fishing for trout and learning to tie flies. I struggled during that spring on the Hous, trying to learn the hatches and patterns that would land trout.  By the time the summer heat arrived I had become somewhat proficient with my casting and was really getting into catching Smallmouth Bass.  At that time fishing for ‘smallies’ was not popular and targeted by only a few fly fishers.  After catching a couple bass with Crayfish hanging out of their mouths, I just had to find a Crayfish pattern to fish on the Housatonic.  What also provoked me to find a Crayfish pattern is that the crayfish population on the river is monstrous.  It’s also one of the primary food sources of ‘smallies’.

Back then, I tried a few crayfish flies, some designed by some famous fly tyers.  They worked but I noticed that flies with more movement were the most productive.  On almost all of those flies the claws were stationary, composed of deer hair or cutout pieces of ‘raw hide’.  I decided to design my own crayfish, using marabou for the claws.  My catch rate improved dramatically. 

One final piece of advice with this fly, crayfish swim fast, with a short darting motion, tail first.  Claws are extended in line with each other.  So, you have to get this fly down deep.  Weighting it with lead is strongly recommended.  You may also need a split shot above the fly.  When fishing this fly, short fast strips, then stopping, can result in hook ups.  Also, there is a technique called the ‘Crayfish Hop’.  Drift or Euro nymph your fly, then with your rod tip, jerk it about 12”.  It’s what most resembles how a crayfish swims. 

To tie this fly, begin by placing your hook in the vice.  Take a few securing wraps of thread behind your eye and cut off the tag end.  You’re going to tie your tail first.  To prepare it, take a 5-6” length of Swiss Straw and fold the first inch over your bodkin.  Fold it over the bodkin 2 more times.  Pinch the 3 folds together to create a fan approximately the width of your hook gap.  Tie it on top of the hook shank directly behind the eye with securing wraps.  It should extend 3 hook eye lengths from the tie in point.  When you tighten down on your wraps, the folds should fan out for your tail.  Adjust the tail/Swiss Straw if needed until your satisfied with its final shape.  Coat the back and front of it with ‘Hard as Nails’.

Next, affix your lead weight to the hook shank.  Take 7-8 wraps at the bend end part of the hook shank, right where the Thorax/Carapace is going to be located.  Bind it down with thread wraps.  Next, off the bend of the hook, tie in 3-4 strands of Pealescent Krystal Flash.  They should be approximately a hook gap in length.  On top of that tie in 2 Brown Matched Marabou Feathers.  The claws should be a hook shank in length off the bend of the fly.  Top that with 2 Black Pieces of Krystal Flash for the Antennae.  They should be 1 ½ times the length of the Marabou Claws.

At the tie in point behind the Claws/Antennae, tie in 6-8 strands of thicker Peacock Herl.  Without advancing your thread, tie in the Brown Saddle Hackle by the butt end.  Trim off the excess.  Next, tie in your Medium Brown Chenille.  It should be at least 6-7” in length.  Take 3-4 wraps forward with your Chenille.  Wrap back over it a couple times to create a bulbous Thorax/Carapace.  Tie it off but do not cut off the butt end.  Now palmer your Saddle Hackle around the Thorax/Carapace.  3-4 wraps should do it, brushing the hackle fibers open with your free hand.  Tie it off and cut off the butt end.  Next, take all the Peacock Herl and pull it towards the tail.  Tie it off with your thread, then cut off the butt ends.  You should still have a segment of Chenille hanging from your hook at the back of the Thorax.  Advance you thread to the tail, then take touching wraps with your remaining Chenille to create the abdomen.  Tie it off at the tail.  Cut off the butt end and whip finish.

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's October 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Black Thread Frenchie  

Hook:  Hanak H XC 400 BL size #16 or Jig Hook of Choice.

Bead:  Silver Slotted Tungsten 3.0 mm 1/8” or size to match hook size.

Body/Thread:  Black UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier.

Tail:  Coq De Leon Pardo 4-6 fibers.

Rib:  Brown Semperfli Tying Wire 0.2.

Coating:  Body & Ribbing coated with UV Resin.

Collar/Hot Spot:  UV Orange Ice Dub.

 

This is a great nymph that can be tied in smaller sizes.  It can also be tied in a variety of colors.  

To tie this fly begin by placing your jig hook and bead in the vice.  Start your thread behind the bead.  Give it a few securing wraps.  Cut off the excess thread.  Wrap your thread down to the bend.  Next, tie in your Coq De Leon Tail.  It should be no longer than a hook shank length beyond the bend.  Cut off the butt ends.  Now tie in your Rib Wire. I like to capture it behind the bead and wrap down to the bend. 

 

Create a uniform tapered body with your thread.  Now wrap your rib forward creating a segmented body.  Tie it off behind the bead and ‘helicopter’ off the excess.  Coat the fly body with UV Resin and cure.  (An alternative is to coat it with ‘Hard as Nails’).   Next dub a sparse amount of dubbing to create a slender dubbing noddle for your Collar/Hot Spot.  Create a Collar/Hot Spot behind the bead.  Whip finish the fly and your done.  

Fly Fish Food has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's October 2023 Fly of the Month

 Hustler Soft Hackle Nymph

Hook:  Umpqua XC400-BN or favorite jib hook in size #14.

Thread:  Black UTC 140.

Bead:  2.8 mm Slotted Gold Tungsten Bead.

Tail:  Coq De Leon dark Pardo Fibers.

Rib:  Opal or Pearlescent tinsel or Flash-a-bou. 

Body:  Hare’s Mask Dubbing or Squirrell Dubbing.

Collar:  CDC in Dark Gray or Slate Dun, formed in a Dubbing Loop.

Head:  Peacock Black Ice Dub.

This fly is a variation of a Hare’s Ear Nymph by a fly fisher named Josh Graffam.  It has some really great features that induce fish to eat it.  It’s tied on a jig hook with a Tungsten Bead.  You can increase the size of the bead depending on the depth you want to fish.  The Opal tinsel gives it some flash and the CDC collar gives the nymph movement when it’s fished. 

To tie this fly, begin by placing your Bead on the hook, and the hook in your vice.  Start your thread behind the bead, take a few securing wraps, cut off the tag end and wrap down to the bend of the hook.   Next, strip & prepare 5-6 fibers of Coq De Leon fibers to tie in for your tail.  They should be approximately a hook shank in length or shorter depending upon your preference.   After you have secured them, cut off the butt ends, then tie in your Opal/Pearlescent Tinsel.  I usually tie it in behind the bead and wrap back down to the bend. 

Next, dub a body & thorax of Hare’s Mask or Squirrell Dubbing.  Dub a tapered body ending just behind the bead, then back off your thread a turn or two.  Now wrap your Opal Tinsel forward to create a segmented body.  Tie it off with your thread and cut the butt end off the hook shank.  Prepare your CDC feather fibers and dubbing loop.  There are commercial tools that can help you do this. I use a household plastic clip to hold the fibers clipped from the feather. I then bring the clip with the fibers to my dubbing loop and spin it.  Now wrap your CDC Dubbing loop around the hook shank 3-4 times, stroking the fibers rearward as you do so.  This should create a nice ‘wet fly’ type collar.  Tie and clip off the remaining loop. Finally, apply a small dubbing noodle of Black Ice Dub behind the bead.  3-4 wraps should do it.  This will help train your CDC Collar fibers to flow rearward.   Whip finish the fly and you’re done.

Fly Fish Food has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month, I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's September 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Albie Whore

Hook:  Mustad 34007 Size #1 or  #2 depending on the Size of Fly to match bait.

Thread:  White, UTC 140 Denier, or White Danville Flat Waxed, or Mono

Tail:  Two White or Tan Saddle Hackle Feathers splayed outward.  Two strands of Pearlescent Krystal Flash on each side.

Body:  Pearlescent Chenille or Estaz in Chartreuse, Pink or Tan.  Flanked by two more Saddle Hackles, splayed outward, the length of the body and tail; with a strip of Lateral Line on each side the length of Body & Tail.  All affixed by a Hot Glue Gun or UV Resin.

Eyes:  Stick on flat 1/8” eyes.

 

This fly was designed by a fly fisher by the name of Richard Reagan.  My preferred color for this fly has a Pink Body.  Although fished mostly for False albacore, it is a great striper fly as well.  There is great debate on whether to use a Hot Glue Gun or UV Resin when tying this fly.  There was no UV Resin when this fly first became popular.  Today, some claim that tying the Whore with a glue gun makes the fly ‘swim better’ and more effectively.  I don’t find that to be the case.  I think this fly is effective period!

To tie this fly place your hook securely in the vise.  Start your thread behind the eyes and make 5-6 wraps.  Cut off the tag end of your thread.  Next, select two shorter White Saddle Hackle Feathers and two more longer Saddle Hackle Feathers.  Strip the fuzzy hackle fibers from the feathers.  The shorter Hackle Feathers should now be about the length of the hook shank.  The Larger Hackle Feathers should be 2 hook shanks in length.  Place them aside for the moment. 

Bring your thread down to the beginning of the bend of the hook.  Using hot glue or UV Resin, place a small drop right where your thread wraps begin.  Affix one of the shorter Hackle Feathers against the drop.  The concave (dull side) of the feather should be facing you.  Repeat the same process on the far side of the hook.  Now make additional thread wraps along the stem.  Cut off the excess stems and return your thread to the base of the tail.  Now take 2 strands of Pearlescent Krystal Flash and tie it in along one side of your Hackle Feathers.  Double it over on the hook shank and repeat the process on the other side.  Trim the Krystal Flash so that it is even with the tips of the Hackle Feathers.  Next, take your Chenille or Estaz and strip off the tip materials to exposé the center string core.  Tie it in at the initial tie in point.  Bring your tying thread up behind the eye.  Make ‘touching’ wraps up the hook shank with your Chenille.  Tie it off behind the hook eye and snip off the excess.  With your scissors, trim off Chenille Fibers on both sides of the hook shank.   Now, take one of your long Hackle Feathers and measure it against the hook shank.  The concave or dull side should again be facing you.  Stroke the lower fibers back with your fingers.  This part of the feather will lay against the side of the hook shank (where you just trimmed your Chenille fibers).  Apply a thin bead of hot melt glue or UV Resin along entire length of the body, then embed your feather in it.  The end of the feather should match the length of the previously affixed shorter Hackle Feathers.  Rotate your vise or ‘flip’ your fly over to repeat the process on the other side of the fly.  Use a bodkin or other tool to make sure the Hackle Feathers are fully seated.  Clip off the excess stems and/or fibers at the hook eye.  Take additional wraps of tying thread to clean up the head area.  

Now add additional beads of glue or resin along the body.  You are going to embed a piece of lateral scale that will run the entire length of the fly.  Repeat the process on the other side.  Trim the Lateral Scale behind the hook eye.  Take additional thread wraps to create a small and uniform head.  Whip finish and cut off your thread.  Apply your stick-on eyes to each side of the fly.  Next, run a bead of Hot Melt Glue or UV Resin over the eyes and along the Lateral Scale on the hook shank. 

Tightlinevideo has a great instructions video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's September 2023 Fly of the Month

 BPS Spent Caddis

Hook:  Dai-Riki 300 or standard dry fly hook in Size #14 to #18.

Thread:  Black, 8/0 or 70 Denier.   

Body:  Peacock Herl.

Wings:  Tan short/fine deer hair or elk hair, cleaned and stacked.

This fly was designed by a Fly Fisher named Dennis Kamatsu.  It is one of my top producing dry flies on the Housatonic.  When I first tied and fished the BPS, I didn’t think it would ‘out fish’ a traditional Elk Hair Caddis, but at times it’s pure magic.  There are two negative issues with this fly.  First, it rides low and flat in the water column, making it difficult to track and see the take.  Secondly, although it's comprised of only two materials, it’s not an easy tie.  It takes a little practice to separate and figure 8 the wings.      

 

To tie this fly, secure the hook in your vice.  Start your thread a ¼ of the way down the hook shank.  Make 5-6 securing wraps and cut off the tag end.  Take 1-3 strands of Peacock Herl (depending on the size of the fly) and tie them onto the top of the hook shank.  Wrap your thread rearward to the start of the bend.  Next, make touching wraps forward with your Peacock Herl behind your tying thread.  Stop making wraps at the ¼ mark of your thread, tie it off with 2-3 wraps of your thread and cut off the tag end.   

 

Next, prepare your Elk or Deer Hair wing.  Cut a ‘wing size’ clump from the hide, pull out the under fur, and stack it in a Hair Stacker.  Now, measure it on top of your hook shank so that it extends almost to the bend of the hook.  Snip the butt ends of your hair off where it aligns with the hook eye.  Move the clump a little rear work so that it now aligns with the rear of the eye.  This whole process is similar to preparing a wing for an Elk Hair Caddis.  Next, make securing wraps to bind down your Wings.  There are a number of ways to do this.  One is to make a few securing wraps and then additional wraps letting your wing rotate 1 revolution around the hook shank.  Whatever technique you use, make sure your wing(s) is bound down securely.  You are now going to separate the wing(s) into two equal halves.  Use figure 8 wraps to splay your wings.  Once the wings are splayed to your liking, use your whip finish tool to make 4-5 wraps.  Cut off your thread.  Add a drop of head cement or Hard as Nails to your thread wraps.  You’re done.

Tightlinevideo has a great instructional video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's June 2023 Fly of the Month

 Green Caddis Nymph

Hook:  Size #12-#14 or Curved Nymph Hook of Choice. 

Bead:   Black Nickel Tungsten to match hook size.

Hotspot at Rear of Fly:  Perdigon tinsel in Blue or Silver.

Thread/Underbody:  Chartreuse or Green ‘Stomach Small’ Vevus Thread.

Over-body:  Synthetic Transparent Nymph Skin or Quill coated with UV Resin

Legs:  Partridge Fibers.

Collar:  Dark Rabbit or Squirrel Dubbing.

 

I tied and fished a similar fly on the Housatonic & Farmington Rivers.  I did quite well with it.  This is an improved version of the fly that is extremely durable.  It’s an easy fly to tie with the one drawback, there’s not substitute for the Synthetic Transparent Nymph Skin or Quill’.  So it’s something you have to have in your fly tying supplies.

To tie this fly, place your Bead on the hook and hook in the vice.  Take 4-5 securing wraps behind the bead, then cut off your tag end.  Wrap approximately 1/3 down the bend of the hook.  Tie in your Transparent Nymph Skin or Quill.  Next tie in your Perdigon Blue or Silver tinsel.  Take 3 touching wraps forward and tie it off.  Cut off the tag end.  Now, wrap your Transparent Skin or Quill using touching wraps forward.  End it behind the bead and cut off the tag end.  Coat the body with UV Resin and cure it. 

You are now going to tie in your Partridge Fibers for legs.  Take 4-5 fibers and tie them in on one side right at the bead tie in point.  They should extend half way down the body.  Now do the same with the other side, again tying in 4-6 fibers.  Finally, you are going to dub your collar of dark Rabbit or Squirrel Dubbing.  Create a slim dubbing noodle, then wrap it approximately 3-4 times behind the bead.  Tie off your thread and cut off the butt end.  Your done.

Lucian Vasies has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

 

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's May 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Tups Indespensable

Hook:  Mustad 3906B Size #12 or #14 or Wet Fly Hook of                    choice. 

Thread:  Danville 6/0 Yellow.

Tail:  Blue Dun Hackle Fibers.

Rib:  Fine Gold or Copper Wire.

Body:  Yellow Floss.

Thorax:  Pink Rabbit Dubbing

Hackle/Collar:  Blue Dun Hen Hackle.  

This is one of my favorite wet flies for suphur hatches.  It’s an old & traditional pattern that’s fairly easy to tie. 

To tie this fly, start your thread behind the eye.  Make some securing wraps and cut off the tag end.  Bring your thread down to the bend of the hook.  Prepare some Blue Dun Hackle Fibers (5-6) for the tail.  Tie them in.  They should be about the length of the shank.  After your tail is secured, advance your thread ¾ up the hook shank.  Next, tie your Fine Gold or Copper Wire, wrapping it down to the bend.  Bring your thread back up to the ¾ point where you tied in your wire.  Tie in your Yellow Floss using touching wraps as you go down to the bend.  You want to create a smooth underbody for your fly.  Bring your thread back up to the ¾ point.

Wrap your Floss forward, making touching wraps.  Tie it off at the ¾ point.  Cut off the tag end.  Now, counter wrap your Wire, using evenly spaced wraps to create a segmented body.  Tie off and cut off the tag end of your Wire.

Next, dub a thin ‘noodle’ of Pink Rabbit Dubbing for your thorax.  Usually 7-10 wraps will be enough.  Do not overdub your thorax and leave enough room behind the eye for your Hackle.  Prepare your Blue Dun Hen Hackle.  Fold back the hackle fibers leaving the tip exposed for your tie in point.  With the tip extending beyond the hook eye, and the feather lying flat on top of the shank, tie it in with securing wraps.  Once it’s tied in cut off the tip.  Using hackle pliers, wrap your Hackle.  3-4 wraps are all that’s needed.  Tie it off and cut off the tag end.  Whip finish your fly. 

Hughie Graves has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

 

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's May 2023 Fly of the Month

Adachi Clouser
a.k.a. California Clouser

Hook:  Gamakatsu 291 60 degree Jig Hook Size #1/0 or Ahrex SA254. 

Thread:  Monofilament.

Eyes:  5.5 mm Dumbbell Eyes a.k.a. 3D Eyes

Tail:  Pearl Flash-a-bou.

Belly:  White or Off White Flash N’ Slinky or SF Blend Fiber.

Gills:  EP Anadromous Brush in red.

Wing:  Chartreuse Flash N’ Slinky topped with Grey or Black Flash N’ Slinky.

 This fly was developed on the West Coast.  What makes this fly something you want to put in your box?  Well, it’s tied on a jig hook and the ‘action’ is much more dramatic than that of a ‘normal’ clouser.  It is also an extremely durable fly, noted for it’s flash tail and the use of ‘artificial’ materials (Flash N’ Slinky) for it’s body. You can easily size this fly to represent any bait fish you want.

To tie this fly place your hook in the vice and mount your dubbell eyes.  The eyes should be mounted approximately a dumbbell eye length beyond the 60 degree bend to the eye.  Use figure 8 wraps to secure them.  Next, tie in 10-12 strands of Flash-a-bou for your tail.  Tie them in behind the eyes and wrap down to the tail. They should extend 4 hook shank lengths beyond the bend.  Coat & cure your eyes and hook shank with UV Resin.  You can also use Epoxy for this step.

Take a bunch of Flash N’ Slinky for your belly.  When stretched it should be  pencil lead width.  You also want to roll it between your fingers for a bit to eliminate the straight edge on your ‘cut’ end.  At the halfway point, tie it in in front of the eyes, then also secure it behind the eyes.  It should be approximately ¾ length of your flash tail.  Fold your Flash N’ Slinky over, again securing it behind your eyes.  You can use your scissors to ‘scrape’ across the end of your tail to give it a tapered outline. 

For your gills, cut a small (maybe 1/3”) of EP Anadromous Brush in Red for your gills.  Once cut, form a ‘V’ with the material.  Tie it in behind the eyes so that the fibers will extend on each side of the hook shank.  After a few ‘soft’ wraps you can adjust the gill material.  Once it’s placed where you want it, bind it down with harder securing wraps.  That completes the belly of the fly. 

You are now going to tie in your wing.  The fly’s originator says that ideally you want 2/3’rds the amount of all material on the top part of your fly.  Take the same amount of Flash N’ Slinky for your wing that you used for the belly.  Again, roll it between your fingers.  Tie it in at the half way point in front of the eyes.  You want to lay half of it on one side of the fly, and the other half on the other side of the fly.  Trim it by sliding your scissors so that it’s ¾ the length of the tail.  Finally, take and prepare contrasting color of Flash-N’-Slinky for the top of your wing.  I usually use Grey or Black to mimic Bait Fish.  Tie it in at the half way point in front of the eyes.  Then, fold it over on top of itself, trim it with your scissors so that’s it’s the same length of your other wing material.  Whip finish it and apply an adhesive to your wraps if desired.

Loon outdoors has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's April 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Purple Haze

Hook:  Dai Riki #300 Size 14 or Dry Fly Hook of choice. 

Thread:  Purple Uni 6/0.

Tail:  Moose Hair or Grizzly & Brown Hackle Fibers.

Body:  Purple Flexi Floss, or Purple Dubbing, or Purple Thread.

Post:  Calf Tail Fibers or Poly-yarn.

Hackle:  Moose Body hair or Brown & Grizzly hackle fibers. 

Finish:  Bottom of the fly is coated with ‘Tough as Nails’. 

This fly was developed by Andy Carlson, the owner and operator of Bitterroot Anglers in Hamilton, Montana.  To tie this fly start your thread 1/3 hook shank length behind the eye.  Take a few wraps rearward and cut off the tag end of your thread.  You are now going to tie in your tail. The original pattern calls for Moose Body hair.  I like to use Brown & Grizzley hackle fibers because in many cases I’m tying the Purple Haze in smaller sizes.  Take about 8-10 fibers and tie them in for your tail.  They should be approximately a hook shank in length.  Take wraps all the way back to the start of the hook bend and then even wraps back up to the tie in point.

Next, prepare & tie in your parachute post.  Again, because I’m usually tying this fly in smaller sizes, I’m going to use Poly-yarn instead of calf tail.  Before the tie in, it should be approximately 1 hook shank in length.  Secure it on top of the hook shank with a pinch wrap.  Now wrap rearward to secure it.  With your thread form an evenly tapered body for the fly.  Now, stand up the longer end of the Post.  Create a thread dam in front of it to lift the post.  Apply some head cement to the base of your post and take a few thread wraps around the base. 

Leave your thread in front of the post.  Prepare your Grizzly and Brown Hackles.  Snip off the stems where the fibers start to become webby.  Now strip the barbules about a ¼ of an inch on each side to give you a bare stem.  Lay the hackles together and place the stems to the near side of the fly, right behind the hook eye and across the post.  Take securing wraps with your thread.  Wrap from the eye to your post, then raise the hackle to vertical and take some securing wraps around your post.  Bring your thread back down and leave it in front of the post.  You can now wrap your hackles.  You can do that in tandem or individually, clockwise around the post.  Take wraps down to the hook shank, then tie them off with your thread.  Clip off your excess hackle, then whip finish around the hook shank or the post, which ever is your preference.  Clip off your thread and errant hackle fibers and you’re done.

I like to treat all my dry flies with High N’ Dry fly flotant, but that’s all up to you.

Tightlinevideo has a great instructional video on how to tie the Purple Haze below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

 

Paul's April 2023 Fly of the Month

 Woodchuck Caddis

Hook:  Tiemco 100 Or Dry Fly Hook of choice; in Size #12 to #18.  

Thread:  Tan, Brown or Wood Duck colored thread.

Body:  Woodchuck under fur; or Natural Hare’s Ear dubbing mixed with Woodchuck under fur.  You may even be able to find Woodchuck dubbing.

Wing:  Woodchuck guard hairs.

Hackle:  Brown and Grizzly; or a single Cree; or dark-barred Dun Hackle.  

Eric Leiser is credited with having popularized this fly.  He included it in his book ‘The Book of Fly Tying Patterns’.  It’s a pretty easy tie and you can knock a lot of these flies fast.  It requires only 3 all natural materials.  This fly has been around for a while.  I have to thank my friend Bill Goeben for introducing it to me more than 35 years ago.  

To tie this fly, secure the hook in your vice.  Start your thread on the hook shank leaving a 2 hook eye length space behind the hook eye.  Take a few securing wraps ‘rearward’ then cut off the tag end.  Wrap rearward so that your thread hangs at about the hook point.  Next, create a slender dubbing noodle with your Body dubbing of choice.  Start dubbing the hook shank at the bend and make ‘touching’ wraps forward to the initial tie in point.  You are now going to prepare your wing by clipping a small clump of Guard Hairs off of the Woodchuck hide.  Pull away the shorter ‘underfur’ from the Guard Hairs.  You can use it for Body dubbing if you want.  Take the Guard Hairs and place them ‘tips first’ into a hair stacker.  Stack the hairs then measure them on top of the hook shank.  It should extend slightly beyond the back edge of the hook bend.  Hold the hairs tightly and make securing wraps forward.  Now lift the butt ends of the hairs off and trim them off.  Continue making securing wraps forward to the hook eye.  Bring your thread back to the initial tie in point. 

Select a Brown and Grizzly hackle for the fly.  A Cree or dark-barred Dun Hackle will also work.  Strip the fuzzy base feather fibers.  Now lay the feather on the near side of the hook.  The feather fibers should be forward beyond the hook eye and the stem will lay the hook shank.   After it is securely anchored, cut off the butt end of the feather and create a secure base for your hackle.  Leave your thread at the initial tie in point.  Now, wrap your hackle back to your thread with your pliers.  Take a few securing wraps around your hackle feather.  You are now going to make ‘touching’ wraps forward, carefully making counter wraps through your hackle, all the way to the hook eye.   Whip finish the fly, then cut off the butt end of  your hackle feather and your done. 

Below is a video by tightlinevideo on how to tie this fly:

 

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at  pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's March 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Krap Nymph

Hook:  1x long nymph hook Size #14 & 16. 

Thread:  6/0 Tan.

Bead:  Copper Tungsten Bead Sized to match hook.

Weight:  (Optional) 8 to 10 wraps of .025 Lead.

Tail:  Olive-ish, Brown or Red-ish Krap Dubbing.

Rib:  Small Copper, Gold, or Red Wire.

Body:  Olive-ish, Brown or Red-ish Krap Dubbing.

Thorax:  Olive-ish, Brown, Red-ish or Black-ish Krap Dubbing. 

Wing Case:  (Optional) Black or clear Bug or Nymph Skin; Coated with UV Resin.

Hot Spot:  (Optional) Wraps of Red, Orange, or Chartreuse Thread

This nymph is gnarly, buggy, and an easy tie.  I don’t usually post flies of the month with a very specific material.  This dubbing material is made by Fly Tyers Dungeon.  It’s a conglomeration of every wet fly dubbing you can think of.  There’s rabbit hair, ice dub material, and a lot of squiggly little bug legs in the mix.  I’ve had great luck with this fly.  You don’t have to purchase it from FTD (although their prices are super reasonable, they are great to deal with, and are super fast with your order).  If you don’t order the material from them, as a tyer, what you should do, is experiment with, and field test, different dubbings that you mix up yourself.  I tie this nymph in Olive, Brown, and with a Red tint. All these colors work.

To tie this fly begin by placing your bead on the hook.  Next, take 8-10 wraps of lead around the hook shank.  Push the wraps tight against the bead.  Trim off the butt ends of the lead wire.  Start your thread immediately behind the lead wraps to lock them in place.  Then, cover the lead and wrap your thread down to the hook bend.  Try to shape your thread wraps to create a tapered underbody.  Now tie in your Wire Ribbing.  I usually tie mine onto the far side of the hook.  I find it helps  prevent the first wrap of ribbing fowling the tail of the fly.  Next, form a thin dubbing noodle with your dubbing.  Dub the first 2/3rds of the fly.  Now wrap your ribbing forward to create a segmented body.  Tie it off with your thread and ‘helicopter’ the wire butt end off the hook shank.  Next, dub your thorax.  End and whip fishing your thread behind the bead.  If you like, you can create a ‘hot spot’ with wraps of Red, Orange, or Chartreuse thread.

A video by FTD on how to tie the Krap Nymph, is shown below:   

The website for Fly Tyers Dungeon is https://www.flytyersdungeon.com/index.htm  

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .