Paul's October 2023 Fly of the Month

 Hustler Soft Hackle Nymph

Hook:  Umpqua XC400-BN or favorite jib hook in size #14.

Thread:  Black UTC 140.

Bead:  2.8 mm Slotted Gold Tungsten Bead.

Tail:  Coq De Leon dark Pardo Fibers.

Rib:  Opal or Pearlescent tinsel or Flash-a-bou. 

Body:  Hare’s Mask Dubbing or Squirrell Dubbing.

Collar:  CDC in Dark Gray or Slate Dun, formed in a Dubbing Loop.

Head:  Peacock Black Ice Dub.

This fly is a variation of a Hare’s Ear Nymph by a fly fisher named Josh Graffam.  It has some really great features that induce fish to eat it.  It’s tied on a jig hook with a Tungsten Bead.  You can increase the size of the bead depending on the depth you want to fish.  The Opal tinsel gives it some flash and the CDC collar gives the nymph movement when it’s fished. 

To tie this fly, begin by placing your Bead on the hook, and the hook in your vice.  Start your thread behind the bead, take a few securing wraps, cut off the tag end and wrap down to the bend of the hook.   Next, strip & prepare 5-6 fibers of Coq De Leon fibers to tie in for your tail.  They should be approximately a hook shank in length or shorter depending upon your preference.   After you have secured them, cut off the butt ends, then tie in your Opal/Pearlescent Tinsel.  I usually tie it in behind the bead and wrap back down to the bend. 

Next, dub a body & thorax of Hare’s Mask or Squirrell Dubbing.  Dub a tapered body ending just behind the bead, then back off your thread a turn or two.  Now wrap your Opal Tinsel forward to create a segmented body.  Tie it off with your thread and cut the butt end off the hook shank.  Prepare your CDC feather fibers and dubbing loop.  There are commercial tools that can help you do this. I use a household plastic clip to hold the fibers clipped from the feather. I then bring the clip with the fibers to my dubbing loop and spin it.  Now wrap your CDC Dubbing loop around the hook shank 3-4 times, stroking the fibers rearward as you do so.  This should create a nice ‘wet fly’ type collar.  Tie and clip off the remaining loop. Finally, apply a small dubbing noodle of Black Ice Dub behind the bead.  3-4 wraps should do it.  This will help train your CDC Collar fibers to flow rearward.   Whip finish the fly and you’re done.

Fly Fish Food has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month, I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's September 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Albie Whore

Hook:  Mustad 34007 Size #1 or  #2 depending on the Size of Fly to match bait.

Thread:  White, UTC 140 Denier, or White Danville Flat Waxed, or Mono

Tail:  Two White or Tan Saddle Hackle Feathers splayed outward.  Two strands of Pearlescent Krystal Flash on each side.

Body:  Pearlescent Chenille or Estaz in Chartreuse, Pink or Tan.  Flanked by two more Saddle Hackles, splayed outward, the length of the body and tail; with a strip of Lateral Line on each side the length of Body & Tail.  All affixed by a Hot Glue Gun or UV Resin.

Eyes:  Stick on flat 1/8” eyes.

 

This fly was designed by a fly fisher by the name of Richard Reagan.  My preferred color for this fly has a Pink Body.  Although fished mostly for False albacore, it is a great striper fly as well.  There is great debate on whether to use a Hot Glue Gun or UV Resin when tying this fly.  There was no UV Resin when this fly first became popular.  Today, some claim that tying the Whore with a glue gun makes the fly ‘swim better’ and more effectively.  I don’t find that to be the case.  I think this fly is effective period!

To tie this fly place your hook securely in the vise.  Start your thread behind the eyes and make 5-6 wraps.  Cut off the tag end of your thread.  Next, select two shorter White Saddle Hackle Feathers and two more longer Saddle Hackle Feathers.  Strip the fuzzy hackle fibers from the feathers.  The shorter Hackle Feathers should now be about the length of the hook shank.  The Larger Hackle Feathers should be 2 hook shanks in length.  Place them aside for the moment. 

Bring your thread down to the beginning of the bend of the hook.  Using hot glue or UV Resin, place a small drop right where your thread wraps begin.  Affix one of the shorter Hackle Feathers against the drop.  The concave (dull side) of the feather should be facing you.  Repeat the same process on the far side of the hook.  Now make additional thread wraps along the stem.  Cut off the excess stems and return your thread to the base of the tail.  Now take 2 strands of Pearlescent Krystal Flash and tie it in along one side of your Hackle Feathers.  Double it over on the hook shank and repeat the process on the other side.  Trim the Krystal Flash so that it is even with the tips of the Hackle Feathers.  Next, take your Chenille or Estaz and strip off the tip materials to exposé the center string core.  Tie it in at the initial tie in point.  Bring your tying thread up behind the eye.  Make ‘touching’ wraps up the hook shank with your Chenille.  Tie it off behind the hook eye and snip off the excess.  With your scissors, trim off Chenille Fibers on both sides of the hook shank.   Now, take one of your long Hackle Feathers and measure it against the hook shank.  The concave or dull side should again be facing you.  Stroke the lower fibers back with your fingers.  This part of the feather will lay against the side of the hook shank (where you just trimmed your Chenille fibers).  Apply a thin bead of hot melt glue or UV Resin along entire length of the body, then embed your feather in it.  The end of the feather should match the length of the previously affixed shorter Hackle Feathers.  Rotate your vise or ‘flip’ your fly over to repeat the process on the other side of the fly.  Use a bodkin or other tool to make sure the Hackle Feathers are fully seated.  Clip off the excess stems and/or fibers at the hook eye.  Take additional wraps of tying thread to clean up the head area.  

Now add additional beads of glue or resin along the body.  You are going to embed a piece of lateral scale that will run the entire length of the fly.  Repeat the process on the other side.  Trim the Lateral Scale behind the hook eye.  Take additional thread wraps to create a small and uniform head.  Whip finish and cut off your thread.  Apply your stick-on eyes to each side of the fly.  Next, run a bead of Hot Melt Glue or UV Resin over the eyes and along the Lateral Scale on the hook shank. 

Tightlinevideo has a great instructions video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's September 2023 Fly of the Month

 BPS Spent Caddis

Hook:  Dai-Riki 300 or standard dry fly hook in Size #14 to #18.

Thread:  Black, 8/0 or 70 Denier.   

Body:  Peacock Herl.

Wings:  Tan short/fine deer hair or elk hair, cleaned and stacked.

This fly was designed by a Fly Fisher named Dennis Kamatsu.  It is one of my top producing dry flies on the Housatonic.  When I first tied and fished the BPS, I didn’t think it would ‘out fish’ a traditional Elk Hair Caddis, but at times it’s pure magic.  There are two negative issues with this fly.  First, it rides low and flat in the water column, making it difficult to track and see the take.  Secondly, although it's comprised of only two materials, it’s not an easy tie.  It takes a little practice to separate and figure 8 the wings.      

 

To tie this fly, secure the hook in your vice.  Start your thread a ¼ of the way down the hook shank.  Make 5-6 securing wraps and cut off the tag end.  Take 1-3 strands of Peacock Herl (depending on the size of the fly) and tie them onto the top of the hook shank.  Wrap your thread rearward to the start of the bend.  Next, make touching wraps forward with your Peacock Herl behind your tying thread.  Stop making wraps at the ¼ mark of your thread, tie it off with 2-3 wraps of your thread and cut off the tag end.   

 

Next, prepare your Elk or Deer Hair wing.  Cut a ‘wing size’ clump from the hide, pull out the under fur, and stack it in a Hair Stacker.  Now, measure it on top of your hook shank so that it extends almost to the bend of the hook.  Snip the butt ends of your hair off where it aligns with the hook eye.  Move the clump a little rear work so that it now aligns with the rear of the eye.  This whole process is similar to preparing a wing for an Elk Hair Caddis.  Next, make securing wraps to bind down your Wings.  There are a number of ways to do this.  One is to make a few securing wraps and then additional wraps letting your wing rotate 1 revolution around the hook shank.  Whatever technique you use, make sure your wing(s) is bound down securely.  You are now going to separate the wing(s) into two equal halves.  Use figure 8 wraps to splay your wings.  Once the wings are splayed to your liking, use your whip finish tool to make 4-5 wraps.  Cut off your thread.  Add a drop of head cement or Hard as Nails to your thread wraps.  You’re done.

Tightlinevideo has a great instructional video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .