Paul's February 2016 Fly of the Month

Zebra Midge

Hook:  Tiemco 2457 or 2487  Size #16-#26. 

Tying thread:   Black 8/0 or UTC 70.

Bead:  Bead of choice – Traditionally a silver metal bead.  Tyers also use glass beads.  My favorite is a white metal bead.

Body:  Black 8/0 or UTC 70.  You can also tie it in red, olive, brown or color of  choice.

Rib:  Small silver wire.

Wing (optional):  Two (2) strands of pearl Krystal Flash. 

Many fly tyers are very hesitant to tie small flies.  The Zebra Midge is an excellent pattern to begin “tying small”.  When tying small flies remember that “less is better”.  It doesn’t get much simpler than this pattern.  Zebra midges imitate midges in the larval form.  They are on the water all year long and are known as Chironomids.   In the larval state they are also known as “blood worms”.   This pattern originated in Arizona along the Colorado River.  It’s attributed to a guide by the name of Ted Welling.  It’s an excellent fly for rivers and still water bodies.

Begin by placing your bead on the hook.  Start your thread behind the bead and wrap down past the bend of the hook.  Bring your thread back up behind the bead and tie in your silver rib.   Cover it completely and form a tapered slender body for your fly.  End with your thread behind the bead.  At this point I do something a little different than most tyers.  I coat the body of the fly with “tough as nails”.  It provides a little sheen and durability.  I then wrap my rib up behind the eye.  Clip the tag end and tie it off.  Your fly is done.  There are countless variations to this fly from changing the color thread used; to placing a hot spot in back of the bead; to tying in a wing bud of two strands of Krystal Flash.  One of the great things about fly tying is experimenting and seeing what works best on the stream.  See what works best for you.   

There is a great instructional video by Tight lines video below.

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or e-mail me at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's January 2016 Fly of the Month

Dubbed Egg Fly

Hook:  Favorite egg hook – this can be a regular nymph hook, egg hook/glo bug hook, or TMC 2487. 

Tying thread:   Florescent orange thread or thread color of choice.

Tail/trailing milt:  White Glo bug yarn.  (I sometimes use CDC feathers)

Egg:  Cheese Glo bug yarn or color of choice.

Eggs, eggs, eggs!!!  In the late fall & winter, if I’m nymphing, one of my flies is almost always an egg.  If you’re a steelhead fisherman you already know about how productive egg patterns are.  Trout and steelies love them because there’s so much nutrition in one bite.

There are many techniques for tying an egg pattern.  This is one of my favorites.  It’s fast and easy. What I also like about it is that you can create an egg of a very specific size.  Rather than lashing the glo bug yarn on the hook – raising, twisting and then cutting it, you are going to “dub” the glo bug yarn onto your hook.  Before you do this you are going to create your egg dubbing with a coffee grinder.  I’m going to show my age here a little bit.  Long before we had such a broad variety of commercially prepared dubbings, many of us fly tyers would use a coffee grinder to create our own dubbing concoctions.   That’s exactly what we are going to do here.  We are going to make a dubbing mixture out of glo bug yarn. 

Begin by taking a strand of glo bug yarn.  Spread and flatten it out.  Cut off small pieces (approximately ¼ inch) of bug yarn into a small pile.  Place the chopped pieces of yarn into the coffee grinder and grind away to form a nice dubbing blend.  You can customize it anyway you want.  If you want to add a little flash throw some angel hair or tinsel of choice into the mix.  With your dubbing mix prepared, your now ready to start your fly.

Start your thread behind the eye of the hook and wind down to about the half way point of your hook shank.  Bring the thread back up to the eye.  Next, you are going to prepare your trailing milt tail.  Take a strand of white glow bug yarn.  Divide it into 3 strands of material.  Take one newly created strand and fold it in half over your thread.  You are going to “double” it on top of the hook shank and wrap over it with your thread.  You are now going to dub your egg.  Dub your egg with the glo yarn dubbing you created.  It’s very easy to dub a ball on your hook shank.  Don’t dub the egg too tight.  You want it to remain somewhat translucent.  Make sure all your thread wraps are covered and not exposed.  Next, create an orange head at the front of the fly.  Apply head cement.  Finally trim and cut your milt tail approximately at the bend of the hook.

Below is a great instructional video from www.toflyfish.com .

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or e-mail me at pdinice@frontier.com  .



Paul's December 2015 Fly of the Month

Baby Rainbow Streamer

Hook:  Size #10 Daiichi 1260 streamer hook.

Tying thread:   Red thread.

Bead:  1/8” multi hued rainbow bead.

Tail:  Two dun saddle hackles (I get them off a dry fly neck).

Body:  Metallic embroidery thread – a mixture of green, bronze, gold.

Lateral line/side wing:  Senyo Wacko Hackle rainbow mix.

Rib:  Red ultra-wire brassi size.

Hackle/collar:  Dun saddle hackle.

Head:  Peacock Ice dub

A couple of years ago I wrote up a Fly of the Month called the “Goldie”.  It is anything but a traditional streamer, but boy does it catch fish.  The Rainbow Trout is similar in that it has a lot of flash and is also a non-traditional tie.  If neither fly appeals to you, you just don’t know what your missing.  Getting back to the flash on the Baby Rainbow, I’m sure it resembles a rainbow fry to hungry trout.  Just a great use of materials to do that.

The fly was developed by Shawn Holsinger of Holsinger’s Fly Shop.  I’ll have more information on Holsinger’s at the end of this pattern recipe.  Shawn does best with this fly dead drifting it with his nymph rig.  I’ve done best fishing it with two other flies in a wet fly rig.  It’s all good and it all works.  See what works best for you.

Begin by placing your bead on the hook.  Start your thread approximately 1/3 the length of the hook shank behind the bead.  (The first 1/3 of the hook shank will be used for the collar and head of the streamer).  Layer it to the bend of the hook.  Tie in 2 medium dun saddle hackle to form the tail.  The length of the tail should be about the length of the hook shank.  They are tied on each side of the hook shank.  Tie them in one at a time.  The feathers should be tied in so that they face each other and form a uniform tail.  Save the base of the feather.  You’ll use it for your collar later.

Next tie in your red ultra-wire which will be used for your rib.  Tie in your metallic embroidery thread.  Like Shawn, I got mine from a craft store.  Palmer the metallic thread forward to create a uniform body, making sure to leave the first 1/3 of the hook shank free.  Next, you’re going to tie in your lateral lines.  You can use Senyo Wacko Hackle or rainbow metallic embroidery thread.  Tie in one piece of material to create a lateral line on each side of the hook shank.  Once the lateral line is tied in, trim it off so that it extends back midway to the feather tail.  Now your going to tie in your collar wetfly style.  Tie it in by the tip.  Take a couple wraps stroking the fibers to the rear of the fly.  Tie it off and wrap your thread back towards the hackle so that it lays back towards the end of the hook.  Finally, dub a head with peacock ice dub.  It’s approximately 5-6 wraps of dubbing.  Tie off behind the bead, apply some finish cement to your finish wraps and you’re done.  

There is a great instructional video by Shaun Holsinger below:

I strongly recommend visiting Holsinger’s Fly Shop Website at http://www.holsingersflyshop.com/ .  The site has some great instructional fly fishing and tying videos.  They carry a ton of great tying supplies.  Located in East Freedom, PA they can be reached at 814 710-7553. 

This fly can also be viewed at the Housatonic Fly Fishermen’s Facebook page and www.tightlinesflyfishing.blogspot.com .  If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or e-mail me at pdinice@frontier.com .

Fishing the Hous November 11, 2015

 

Novemeber 11, 2015 --- It's Scud Time! 

 

Dan battles a feisty Hous Rainbow

 

 

 

     November is one of my favorite times to fish the Housatonic.  Most years scuds in the river become extremely active.  As my friend Dan says "the insect life winds down and the trout really key on the scuds".  Another reason why I like fishing in November is to fish with good friends.  I've been fishing the past few years with 'scud afficionado' Dan Kenny.  This year we were joined by two great and experienced fly fishermen, Will Stone & Mike Shannon.  It was a nasty morning when we all arrived early on the Hous.  Really raining and gusty winds around 8:30 a.m.   Then the rain stopped and the wind laid down.  It was a perfect late fall fly fishing day.   The fishing wasn't easy but we all caught fish on a variety of flies including scuds, wet flies, streamers, and some olive dries.  It was just a great day to enjoy the river and celebrate friendships.

Paul's November 2015 Fly of the Month

Rainbow Warrior

(and variation Dragon Warrior)

Hook:  Tiemco 2487  Size #14-#20. 

Tying thread:   Red 8/0 or UTC 70.

Bead:  Rainbow bead, glass bead, or bead of choice.

Tail:   Pheasant tail fibers.

Body:  Pearl mylar tinsel, flashabou, or ribbon. (Black halographic tinsel for the Dragon Warrior).

Thorax:  Rainbow Sow Scud Dubbing.

Wing Case:  Pearl mylar tinsel, flashabou, flash back material or ribbon.

This was developed by Mr. Lance Egan of Utah.  It was made to be fished on tail water fisheries.  At times I’ve had remarkable success with it on the Farmington River.  It works great all year round but I’ve had most success when sulphers are on the water.  Many fly fishermen have success with it in the winter months.  

There are a few things that I love about this fly.  First is the iridescent pearl body.  The red thread really sheens through the body.  It acts as a beacon that says “eat me” to fish.  I’ve previously fished and had success with other pearl body nymphs such as “Lightening Bugs”.  There’s something about it that just attracts fish.  If you  substitute black holographic flashabou for the pearl, you’ve got a “Dragon Warrior”.  That pattern tied in smaller sizes has also worked well for me.  I also love the little band of red thread (“hot spot”) behind the bead.  Finally, what’s not to like about pheasant tail fibers for a tail.  I almost always fish this nymph in a two fly rig. 

To begin tying this fly, place your matching bead of choice on the hook.  In keeping with the name of the fly, and based on previous experience, I use a “rainbow” bead.  These beads have different multi colored hues which reflect light.  I think they give a much more natural presentation and something different that trout can’t recognize.  Sometimes that is extremely important on a tail water like the Farmington where the fishing pressure on the resident fish is off the charts.  At one time “rainbow” beads were difficult to find and purchase.  They have really caught on with fly fishers and are now readily available in most fly shops. 

Next, lay down and cover the hook shank with your red thread to form a slender and uniform body.   Then tie in 3-4 pheasant tail fibers for your tail.  Now tie in your pearl mylar tinsel or flashabou.  Advance your thread to just behind the bead.  Palmer your tinsel forward to create the body of the fly.  Tie it off on top of the nymph but do not cut off the tag end.  You are going to use it for a wing case after you dub your thorax.  Dub a thorax with tan sow scud rainbow dubbing.  Pull your mylar wing case over the thorax and tie and cut it off just behind the bead.  Make a few wraps with your red thread behind the bead.  Tie and cut it off.  You can apply some head cement to the wraps or give the wing case and wraps a coat of U.V. resin or 5 minute epoxy. 

There is a great instructional video by Tim Camissa on how to tie the Rainbow Warrior below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a pattern of the month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or e-mail me at pdinice@frontier.com . 

Paul's October 2015 Fly of the Month

Slumpbuster - A John Barr Streamer

Hook:  TMC 5262 Size #2-#10. 
Tying thread:   3/0 olive Monocord.
Cone:  Silver or gold, brass or tungsten sized to match hook size.
Weight:   Lead wire, sized to hook.
Rib:  Brassie sized chartreuse ultra-wire.
Body:   Silver Body Braid/Ribbon.

Wing:  Olive Pine Squirrel Zonker Strip.

Collar:  Olive Pine Squirrel Zonker Strip wrapped hackle style.

This is a big fish fly.  One of the top reasons why I like it.  Its originator is John Barr of Copper John fame.  Although this pattern calls for pine squirrel for the zonker strip, I’ve used rabbit.  The pine squirrel is a little stiffer and shorter, definitely a preference for smaller flies.  The rabbit seems to work well on larger ones. 

Begin by sliding the cone onto the hook and insert in your vise.  Make approximately 10-15 wraps of lead around the hook shank.  Slide it up against the inside of the cone to lock it in place.  Begin your olive thread at the end of the lead wraps.  Cover them and wrap down to the bend of the hook forming a uniform slightly tapered body.  Then coat the wraps with ‘hard as nails.   At the bend of the hook tie in your ribbing material.  Next tie in your body braid material behind the cone and wrap your thread back to the bend.  Make sure the length of body braid is long enough to palmer and wrap your body.  After wrapping your body cut and tie it off behind the cone.  Next tie in your zonker wing behind the cone.  It should be approximately 1½ times the length of the hook shank. 

Slightly dampen the wing material.  Palmer and wrap the wire ribbing forward through the wing.  You can separate sections of the wing after its dampened.  Cut and tie it off at the cone.  Next, tie in another zonker strip behind the cone.  It’s going to be your hackle/collar.   Make sure you wrap the strip around the hook with the hair facing the bend of the hook.  Two or less wraps is all you’ll need.   Preen the hair fibers back towards the bend of the hook as your wrapping the collar.  After two wraps cut and tie it off.  Apply some head cement to your wraps.  Your done.  Below is a great instructional video from tighlinevideo on how to tie the Slumpbuster.

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month, I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or e-mail me at pdinice@frontier.com . 

Paul's September 2015 Fly of the Month

Napoleon’s Dynamite Jig Nymph

 

Hook:  Jig Hook Size #12-#18.  I use Allen Fly Fishing J100 BL hooks.

Bead:  Tungsten Disco bead or Rainbow Bead.

Weight:  .015 lead wire.

Tag:   Fluorescent Orange Thread.

Tail:  Peacock Crystal Flash – 3 strands.

Body:  Rusty Brown Thread coated with varnish.

Rib:   Chartreuse Crystal Flash.

Thorax:  Peacock and Fluorescent Orange SLF Prism Dubbing.

Collar:  Fluorescent Orange Thread.

This is one of my favorite jig head nymphs.  I’ve been nymphing with more jig head flies this past summer.  They really get down deep fast !

It’s important to note that “jig nymphs” drift with the point up.  Also, most jig patterns are tied in the “round”.  No matter what way you look at them they look the same.

I use Allen J100BL jig hooks.  They are black and barbless.  Any comparable jig hook can be used.  Be aware that the shank on a jig hook runs smaller than a traditional nymph hook. 

Begin by placing your “disco” tungsten bead on the hook.  A “disco” bead is a multi-faceted and gives off additional sparkle to your fly.  I also use “rainbow” beads for this fly.  Rainbow beads have multi-hued colors.  You can also use a bead of your choice.   Some tyers use “slotted beads” when tying on a jig hook.  I haven’t had any problem using a traditional bead. 

After your bead is on the hook, make 5-6 wraps of lead behind it.  Push it up against the bead to lock it in place.  Next take your hot orange thread and cover the hook shank.  Tie in 3 fibers of peacock crystal flash for your tail.  Next form a slim tapered body with your thread.  Tie the orange thread off.  Trim the tail to the length of the hook shank.  Tie in your rusty brown thread and wrap back along the hook shank, leaving an orange “hot spot” at the rear of the fly.   Tie in the chartreuse crystal flash to be used for your rib.  Wrap back and forth to cover all the orange thread with the exception of the “hot spot”.  Rib the fly with even wraps of the crystal flash.  Tie off your brown thread.  Next, coat the body with varnish to enhance durability and sheen.  I use 2-3 coats of ‘hard as nails’.  You can use a cement or resin of your choice.  After it dries, reattach your hot orange thread.  Tie it in behind the bead.  You’re going to dub your thorax.  You will be using two dubbings to do this.  The thorax consists of ‘two turns” of peacock SLF Prism dubbing, followed by ‘two turns’ of hot orange SLF Prism dubbing.  Now create a very small additional hot spot collar with your orange thread behind the bead.  Seal the thread with head cement.  Finally, using a piece of Velcro, brush out your collar to create a “buggy look” to your nymph. 

A gentleman by the name of Tim Cammisa has a great instructional video on how to tie this pattern below:

 If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month, I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or e-mail me at pdinice@frontier.com .