Paul's December Bonus 2020 Fly of the Month

 The Conover

Hook:  Fine Wire Dry Fly Hook, Size #10 to #20.

Tying thread:   White.

Tail:  Barbs of stiff, cream colored hackle.  (or use Golden Badger Hackle Fibers.)

Body:  Blend of Muskrat fur and red wool.  Seal and red wool will work too.   

Hackle:  Golden Badger. 

The ‘Conover’ is an iconic Catskill Fly.  It was developed by the Dettes Fly Shop in Roscoe NY.  The Dettes first tied this fly back in 1934 for a client named Scotty Conover.  It has been one of my ‘go’ to flies for years.  Although most tie and fish it in a size #14, I’ve had great success fishing it in a size #20.  When I first started fly tying, I tied this pattern, not because I knew it was effective, but because it had no wings and was easier to tie.  

To tie this fly begin by starting your thread at the mid-point of the hook shank.  Wrap back to the bend of the hook.  For a Size #14 fly, tie in 5-6 fibers of Golden Badger Hackle.  Next, dub a thin noodle for your body.  You are going to create a tapered body extending from the tie in point of your tail, up the hook shank.  You want to end the body approximately 1/3 of the hook shank behind the eye.  Where your body ends, tie in your Golden Badger Hackle.  Oversizing the hackle slightly is how most tie this fly.  This may take 2 hackles for larger sized ‘Conovers’, or just 1 for smaller sizes.  Wrap your hackle forward and tie it off behind the eye.  Whip finish your fly and your done. 

There is a great instructional video by Down by the River below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com . 

Paul's December 2020 Fly of the Month

Wood Special 

Hook:  Size #8 Dai-Riki #700 Streamer hook; or use Mustad 3665A (or preferred hook).

Thread:  UTC 70 Denier Black Thread.

Rib:  Small Silver Mylar Tinsel. 

Tail:  Golden Pheasant Crest Tippets.

Body:  Florescent Orange Chenille.

Wing:  Wood Duck lemon flank feather. 

Throat/hackle:  Brown or Grizzly hen hackle barbules.

Eyes:  (Optional)  Jungle Cock.

Head:  Thread, finished with UV Resin.

This is a very traditional & famous Maine Streamer.  It was developed by Joe Sterling in the 1960’s.  Still a very popular streamer pattern in Maine, it’s a great productive fly anywhere.  It’s been a longtime staple of mine here on CT waters.  The size of this streamer is on the smaller size, limited due to the length of the Wood Duck wing.  It seems most fly fishers are into the bigger articulated streamers.  I tend to go in the other direction fishing smaller streamer sizes.

To tie this fly, secure the hook in your tying vice and start your thread an eye length space behind the eye.  Now, tie in your Silver Mylar Tinsel.  I bind it down where my thread wraps start and wrap down to the bend.  Next, tie in your Golden Pheasant Crest Tippets.  You need approximately 1 whole feather for the tail.  The tail should be slightly more than a hook gap in length.  For almost every ‘traditional’ streamer you want to develop a very even body and base.  When tying in the tail, wrap it back all the way up to your thread starting point.  At the starting location of your tying thread, tie in your Orange Chenille.  With the Chenille placed on top of the hook shank, wrap all the way back to the base of the tail.  Bring the thread forward making open spiral wraps back up to your starting point.  Next, make ‘touching’ wraps up the hook shank with your Chenille.  At the tying thread, tie it off and cut off the tag end.  Now, make even open spiral wraps with your Silver Tinsel rib.  When you reach your tying thread, anchor it down and cut off the tag end.  You are now going to prepare your Wood Duck feather for the wing.  It is ultimately going to extend from just behind the hook eye to the tip of the tail.  Strip off the fuzzy lower fibers of the feather.  Collapse the wing by rolling it between your fingers.  You want the feather to have a nice curve with the fibers sticking together.  Now, tie in and anchor the feather to the top of the hook shank.  Cut off the butt end of the feather.  With you thread create a smooth base for your hackle.  Prepare a Grizzly Hen hackle for your Throat.  Tie it in at the head and wrap it to create a Throat with approximately 3 wraps.  Tie the feather off and clip off the butt end.  Create an even head while sweeping back the feather fibers.  Tie it off and apply some UV Resin or cement of your choice. 

Below is a great instructional video from Tightlinevideo.

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com . 

Paul's November Bonus 2020 Fly of the Month

Deep Sparkle Pupa 

Hook:  Tiemco 3769 Size #12-#18 (or similar hook of choice).

Bead (Optional):  Gold, Copper, or Black Tungsten Bead to match.

Thread:  UT Ultra thread 70 Brown, Black, or Olive.

Tail/Body Shuck:  Sparkle Yarn (Color to match Naturals – Some tiers also use Antron or Zelon).

Body:  Sparkle Yarn mixed with U/V Hare’s Ear Dubbing.

Wing:  Deer Hair (Color to match naturals).

Thorax/Collar:  Fur Dubbing (color to match). 

This fly is a variation of the Emergent Sparkle Pupa designed by Gary LaFontaine.  In my opinion he was one of the most innovative fly tiers of our time.  The Sparkle Yarn on this fly creates a ‘sheath’ that traps air bubbles just like the natural.  Originally this fly did not have a bead.  Instead of a deer hair wing, it had deer hair legs and was meant to be fished in the surface film.   This fly is used to fish deeper. Also, a lot of the hits you get will occur as the fly swings upward at the end of your drift.  You also want to let it ‘dangle’ at the end of your cast.  At times this will also induce the trout to strike it.  

Begin by placing bead on your hook.  Place your hook in the vice.  Make several wrap of thread behind your bead.  Cut off the tag end.  Now take a hank of Sparkle Yarn a couple inches long.  Match the thickness of it to the size of the fly your tying.  Tie it in by one end behind the bead.  With your fingernail press down on it so that it surrounds the hook shank.  Wrap your thread rearward binding down the Sparkle Yarn.  When you reach the end of the hook shank divide the yarn into two equal parts and form a ‘V’ at the rear of the hook.  Next, dub your underbody.  Your body should be slender enough to just cover your thread wraps.  Don’t overdub.  End it leaving a little space behind the bead.  Now, bring both sides of your Sparkle Yarn (‘V’) forward on each side of the hook.  Take two wraps of your thread to bind it behind the bead.  With your dubbing needle pull the yarn slightly away from the body.  Your going to create a little ‘bubble’ around the hook shank.  Work it with your fingers to ensure that it surrounds the body/shank. 

Once formed you can take some additional thread wraps to bind down the yarn behind the bead.  Clip off the excess/tag end of the yarn.  To create a trailing tail, clip a few fibers of the body shuck behind the bead.  Sweep the fibers back with your fingers.  The tail should consist of approximately 5-6 fibers.  Next, you are going to tie in a sparse  deer hair wing behind the bead.  It should be no longer than the hook shank.  Clip off the butt ends and secure it with a few wraps.  Finally, dub your Thorax/Collar behind the bead.  Whip finish and clip off the tag end.  

Intheriffle has a great instructional video on how to tie this fly Below: 

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com . 

Paul's November 2020 Fly of the Month

 Butano Perdigon

Hook:  Hanak Jig Hook Sizes #12 to #16 (or Jig Hook of choice).

Bead:   Slotted Silver Tungsten (typically 2.3 mm bead for size #16, 2.8 mm for size #14, and 3.3 mm for size #12).  (I’ll also use an Orange or Copper bead when I tie this Perdigon.)

Thread:  Veevus 16/0 Fluorescent Orange.

Lead Wire:  0.015” for size #16 and 0.020 for sizes #14 & #12.

Tail:  Barbs of Coq de Leon fibers

Body:  1 Strand of Krystal Flash Fluorescent Orange (tied into form a loop).   

Collar/Hot Spot:  Orange Fluorescent Thread.

Wing Pad:  Black Nail Polish.

Finish:  Solarez Bone Dry, or Hard as Hull, or finish of choice.

I’ve had great success fishing ‘Perdigon’ type flies.  Perdigons usually consist of tinsel & thread covered with UV resin or ‘Hard as Hull’ finisher.  With no legs they sink fast and boy are they productive.

To tie this fly, begin by placing your bead on the hook.  Behind it take 3 wraps of Lead Wire.   Slide the wraps firmly against the bead.  Remove all Lead ‘tag ends’.  Cover the wraps with your Fluorescent Orange Thread.  Bring your thread back to the end of the hook shank near the bend.  Next, tie in 3 fibers of Coq de Leon Fibers for your tail.  They should be approximately a hook shank length behind the bend. 

You’re now going to tie in a strand of Fluorescent Orange Krystal Flash.  Tie it in by it’s 2 tips forming a loop, making 1 strand into 2.  Wrap back to where the Coq de Leon fibers begin.  The loop should protrude off the back of the fly.  Place the loop in a dubbing tool and twist it into a single rope.  Wrap your Krystal Flash forward creating a slim body silhouette.  Tie it off behind the bead and cut off the tag end.   Take additional wraps with your thread behind the bead to create a ‘hot spot’.  Whip finish and cut off the ‘tag’ end of your thread.  Your not going to take Black Nail Polish and create a ‘Wing Pad’.  Dab it on top of the bead and hot spot.  Let the nail polish dry.  Now, coat the fly with UV Resin or ‘Hard as Hull’ finisher.  I like to use ‘Solarez Bone Dry’.

There is a great instructional video on how to tie this fly below by the Tactical Fly Fisher:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com . 

Paul's October Bonus 2020 Fly of the Month

 Smokejumper

Hook:  Dai-Riki  125  Size #16  Emerger hook (or Emerger hook of preference).

Thread/Abdomen:  6/0 Danville in either Fluorescent Orange, Red, Olive, Brown, or Black.

Rib:  Small silver wire.

Wing Case/Emergent Wing:  Natural CDC Puff.

Thorax:  Single Peacock Hurl from just below the eye area.

This is an extremely versatile pattern.  It can be tied in a range of colors and sizes to imitate emerging may flies and midges.  My two favorite colors are orange and olive.  It’s just a great fly that’s relatively easy to tie.

Begin by winding your thread body leaving an eye-length space behind the eye.  Take some wraps rearward and clip off the tag.  End your wraps at around the hook point.  It’s here that your going to tie in your Silver wire to be used as a rib.  Secure the wire by making thread wraps well down into the hook bend.  Then bring your thread back up the shank even with the hook point. 

With your wire, make open spiral thread wraps to segment the body.  When you reach your tying thread, make several tight wraps around the wire, then ‘helicopter’ the wire to break it off.  Select a single CDC puff to be used for your fly’s wing case and emergent wing.  The puff should be at least as long as the body.  You are going to tie it in by the butt end with the tips facing rearward.  Take several tight wraps with your thread to anchor it.  Once tied in double check the length to make sure you will have enough length for the wing case and emergent wing.  Bring the CDC back towards the wing of the fly.  Clip off the butt end.  For the thorax of the fly, select a single strand of Peacock Hurl next to the eye of the feather.  Secure it with the butt end.  Wrap it forward several times to create a dense thorax area.  Tie it off with your thread with several wraps.  Cut off the butt end. 

Now, grab hold of the CDC by the tips and bring if forward over the Peacock and eye of the hook.  Take two wraps with your thread behind the eye.  With your dubbing needle, wiggle/insert it under the wing case and lift it up a little.  This creates a small bulge which will often carry and air bubble.  Next, pull the emergent wing rearward and make some anchoring wraps behind the eye.  Finally, make a 4-5 wrap whip finish and cut off the tag end of the thread.    

‘Tightlinevideo’ has a great video on how to tie this fly below: 

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com . 

Paul's October Fly of the Month

 Fish Skull Skulpin Bunny

Hook:  Streamer Hook Size #4 4XL, down or straight eye (or streamer hook of choice).

Tying thread:   Black, Brown, or Olive 70 Denier Ultra-Thread.

Head:  Fish -Skull Sculpin Helmet (Small size for a Size #4 hook).

Eyes:  Fish-Skull Living Eyes.

Under Body:  (Optional) Favorite Tinsel or Sparkle Body.

Tail & Back:  Hareline Rabbit Strip Zonker (approximately 1/8” wide – color of choice- I like olive or brown.).

Collar/Throat:  (Optional) Long Fiber Dubbing or Lazer Dub.

Body & Fins:  Hareline Cross-cut Rabbit Strip (color to match tail/back).

Flash:  (Optional)  A few strands of Krystal Flash tied at the head on each side of the hook shank.

 One of the great features of this fly is that the hook point rides ‘inverted’ in the water.  You can bounce it off the bottom and get fish it to get into very deep holes.  It’s a great fly to use for ‘smallies’ on the Housatonic but trout will hit it too.  

Start your thread 2-3 eye lengths behind the eye of the hook.  Wrap backwards to create a thread base that completely covers the hook shank.  You are now going to prepare your Rabbit Zonker Strip for the Tail/Back.  Cut it approximately 2 times the length of your thread covered hook shank.  At the end of the tail cut a small “V” to create a tapered end of the fly.  Also, mark a spot on the strip that will be pierced by the hook point.  It should ultimately sit on the hook shank with the desired length of tail.  Place it aside for now. 

Next, tie in some Tinsel or Sparkle Body at the end of the hook shank.  Wrap it up  the hook shank to cover your thread base.  Tie and clip off the tag end.  Where your thread and body ends, you are going to tie in some Long Fiber Dubbing.  Take a clump and tie it to the hook shank.  Take a few loose wraps and with your fingers, press and form it around the hook shank.  Now pull the forward facing fibers rearward and tie them in place.  After removing your hook from the vice, take your precut Rabbit Zonker and pierce it with the hook point.  Pull the strip forward so that it rests on the hook shank.  Return your hook to the vice.  Secure the forward end of the strip with tight thread wraps. 

Take a piece of Cross-cut Rabbit Strip and tie it in at the front of the Back/Tail (you can use another Zonker Strip but make sure you sweep back the hair fibers as you wrap it around the shank).  Wrap it 2-3 times around the hook shank sweeping all hair fibers rearward.  Capture it with your thread and trim off the waste.  Your going to make multiple wraps to secure everything and form a solid base for your Skull Head.  You are now going to ‘test fit’ your Skull helmet on the fly.  You may need to build up your thread wraps if it fits too loosely.  Once your feel that the helmet fits to your liking, remove it from the hook shank.  Apply your adhesive of choice at the end of the hook shank (ultimately under the Fish Skull Head).  (I use Liquid Fusion).  Re-affix your Fish Skull on the hook.  I push mine back enough so that I have room to make some securing thread wraps in front of the Helmet.  When your Helmet is in place, splay and press the hair fibers of your collar flat on each side of it.  Place a drop of adhesive on your thread wraps in front of the Helmet, and in the eye sockets.  Place an adhesive, then your eyes in the sockets.  I then cover the eyes with UV resin to ensure durability.  Finally, I’ll use a magic marker to create a ‘barred’ effect on the fly body.

There is a great instructional video by McFly Angler below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com . 

Paul's September Bonus 2020 Fly of the Month

Rhody (Two Feather) Flat Wing 

Hook:  Gamakatsu SC15 Wide Gap Hook Size 2/0, or Eagle Claw 253, or preferred hook. 

Thread:  Uni Mono Thread or White Uni-thread 3/0.

Tail:  White Bucktail over which is a white saddle hackle, topped with 2 strands of pearl Flash-a-bou, topped with a grizzly chartreuse saddle hackle, topped with 2 more strands of pearl Flash-a-bou.

Body:  A few more pieces of Flash-a-bou, or Bill’s Body Braid, or tinsel palmered forward.

Under Wing/Belly: White Bucktail.

Wing:  Chartreuse Bucktail extending almost to the tip of the tale.  On top of the Wing is 5-6 strands of Peacock Herl.

Eyes (optional):  3D Living Eyes to match fly size or Jungle Cock.

This fly is just a great bait fish imitation.  It was developed by Rhode Islander Bill Peabody, of Bill’s Body Braid fame.  (I love the ‘Goldie’ fly with that material.)  It was also popularized by Ken Abrames with his series of RLS Flies.  If you fly fish the salt in New England, you must own a copy of Abrames’ Striper Moon. 

This fly can be tweaked to imitate pretty much any bait fish.  Casts like a dream too.  Experiment with size and color.  I tie them in chartreuse, yellow, olive & black.  Abrames is very specific in terms of the number of fibers, feathers, and flash used in his RLS flat wing flies.  Too much material on ‘flat wings’ might restrict the feathers from movement ‘side to side’.   He also felt that a sparser tied fly more readily revealed the colors found in bait fish.

To tie this fly, start your thread behind the eye and wrap to the bend of the hook.  You are now going to tie in some sparse White Bucktail.  It should extend 1 ½ to 2 times the length of the hook shank.  Select a white saddle hackle to lie flat over the bucktail.  Before you tie it in, strip the fuzzy/webby part of the feather and dub it onto your tying thread.  Build a dubbing pillow at the tie in point of your bucktail.   This will be the base upon which you will lay and tie in your White Saddle Hackle.  After tying in your hackle, clip off the butt end and top it with two strands of pearl Flash-a-bou.  Next, tie in your grizzly chartreuse saddle hackle.  Place it right on top of your white saddle.  It will be the same length.   Clip off the butt end and tie in your body material.  You can use additional strands of Flash-a-bou, Bill’s Body Braid, or material of your choice.  Palmer the material forward with even wraps.  Tie it off behind the eye and clip the excess.  Next, invert your hook and tie in your White Bucktail belly.  Tie it in behind the eye.  It should extend halfway down your tail.  Invert your fly again for your top wing.  Tie in a clump of Chartreuse Bucktail.  It should extend a little further then the length of your fly belly.  Next, on top of the chartreuse wing tie in 5-6 strands of Peacock Herl.  Whip finish the fly and apply head cement or favorite adhesive.  Eyes are optional.  I’ve seen some tiers use 3D Living Eyes.  Others have used Jungle Cock.  Some not at all.

Trident Fly Fishing has a nice video on how to tie this fly below:

Their website can also be reached at https://www.tridentflyfishing.com/ .

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com .