Sunday, October 25, 2020

Paul's November 2020 Fly of the Month

 Butano Perdigon

Hook:  Hanak Jig Hook Sizes #12 to #16 (or Jig Hook of choice).

Bead:   Slotted Silver Tungsten (typically 2.3 mm bead for size #16, 2.8 mm for size #14, and 3.3 mm for size #12).  (I’ll also use an Orange or Copper bead when I tie this Perdigon.)

Thread:  Veevus 16/0 Fluorescent Orange.

Lead Wire:  0.015” for size #16 and 0.020 for sizes #14 & #12.

Tail:  Barbs of Coq de Leon fibers

Body:  1 Strand of Krystal Flash Fluorescent Orange (tied into form a loop).   

Collar/Hot Spot:  Orange Fluorescent Thread.

Wing Pad:  Black Nail Polish.

Finish:  Solarez Bone Dry, or Hard as Hull, or finish of choice.

I’ve had great success fishing ‘Perdigon’ type flies.  Perdigons usually consist of tinsel & thread covered with UV resin or ‘Hard as Hull’ finisher.  With no legs they sink fast and boy are they productive.

To tie this fly, begin by placing your bead on the hook.  Behind it take 3 wraps of Lead Wire.   Slide the wraps firmly against the bead.  Remove all Lead ‘tag ends’.  Cover the wraps with your Fluorescent Orange Thread.  Bring your thread back to the end of the hook shank near the bend.  Next, tie in 3 fibers of Coq de Leon Fibers for your tail.  They should be approximately a hook shank length behind the bend. 

You’re now going to tie in a strand of Fluorescent Orange Krystal Flash.  Tie it in by it’s 2 tips forming a loop, making 1 strand into 2.  Wrap back to where the Coq de Leon fibers begin.  The loop should protrude off the back of the fly.  Place the loop in a dubbing tool and twist it into a single rope.  Wrap your Krystal Flash forward creating a slim body silhouette.  Tie it off behind the bead and cut off the tag end.   Take additional wraps with your thread behind the bead to create a ‘hot spot’.  Whip finish and cut off the ‘tag’ end of your thread.  Your not going to take Black Nail Polish and create a ‘Wing Pad’.  Dab it on top of the bead and hot spot.  Let the nail polish dry.  Now, coat the fly with UV Resin or ‘Hard as Hull’ finisher.  I like to use ‘Solarez Bone Dry’.

There is a great instructional video on how to tie this fly below by the Tactical Fly Fisher:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at . 

Wednesday, October 7, 2020

Paul's Bonus October 2020 Fly of the Month


Hook:  Dai-Riki  125  Size #16  Emerger hook (or Emerger hook of preference).

Thread/Abdomen:  6/0 Danville in either Fluorescent Orange, Red, Olive, Brown, or Black.

Rib:  Small silver wire.

Wing Case/Emergent Wing:  Natural CDC Puff.

Thorax:  Single Peacock Hurl from just below the eye area.

This is an extremely versatile pattern.  It can be tied in a range of colors and sizes to imitate emerging may flies and midges.  My two favorite colors are orange and olive.  It’s just a great fly that’s relatively easy to tie.

Begin by winding your thread body leaving an eye-length space behind the eye.  Take some wraps rearward and clip off the tag.  End your wraps at around the hook point.  It’s here that your going to tie in your Silver wire to be used as a rib.  Secure the wire by making thread wraps well down into the hook bend.  Then bring your thread back up the shank even with the hook point. 

With your wire, make open spiral thread wraps to segment the body.  When you reach your tying thread, make several tight wraps around the wire, then ‘helicopter’ the wire to break it off.  Select a single CDC puff to be used for your fly’s wing case and emergent wing.  The puff should be at least as long as the body.  You are going to tie it in by the butt end with the tips facing rearward.  Take several tight wraps with your thread to anchor it.  Once tied in double check the length to make sure you will have enough length for the wing case and emergent wing.  Bring the CDC back towards the wing of the fly.  Clip off the butt end.  For the thorax of the fly, select a single strand of Peacock Hurl next to the eye of the feather.  Secure it with the butt end.  Wrap it forward several times to create a dense thorax area.  Tie it off with your thread with several wraps.  Cut off the butt end. 

Now, grab hold of the CDC by the tips and bring if forward over the Peacock and eye of the hook.  Take two wraps with your thread behind the eye.  With your dubbing needle, wiggle/insert it under the wing case and lift it up a little.  This creates a small bulge which will often carry and air bubble.  Next, pull the emergent wing rearward and make some anchoring wraps behind the eye.  Finally, make a 4-5 wrap whip finish and cut off the tag end of the thread.    

‘Tightlinevideo’ has a great video on how to tie this fly below: 

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at . 

Sunday, September 27, 2020

Paul's October Fly of the Month

 Fish Skull Skulpin Bunny

Hook:  Streamer Hook Size #4 4XL, down or straight eye (or streamer hook of choice).

Tying thread:   Black, Brown, or Olive 70 Denier Ultra-Thread.

Head:  Fish -Skull Sculpin Helmet (Small size for a Size #4 hook).

Eyes:  Fish-Skull Living Eyes.

Under Body:  (Optional) Favorite Tinsel or Sparkle Body.

Tail & Back:  Hareline Rabbit Strip Zonker (approximately 1/8” wide – color of choice- I like olive or brown.).

Collar/Throat:  (Optional) Long Fiber Dubbing or Lazer Dub.

Body & Fins:  Hareline Cross-cut Rabbit Strip (color to match tail/back).

Flash:  (Optional)  A few strands of Krystal Flash tied at the head on each side of the hook shank.

 One of the great features of this fly is that the hook point rides ‘inverted’ in the water.  You can bounce it off the bottom and get fish it to get into very deep holes.  It’s a great fly to use for ‘smallies’ on the Housatonic but trout will hit it too.  

Start your thread 2-3 eye lengths behind the eye of the hook.  Wrap backwards to create a thread base that completely covers the hook shank.  You are now going to prepare your Rabbit Zonker Strip for the Tail/Back.  Cut it approximately 2 times the length of your thread covered hook shank.  At the end of the tail cut a small “V” to create a tapered end of the fly.  Also, mark a spot on the strip that will be pierced by the hook point.  It should ultimately sit on the hook shank with the desired length of tail.  Place it aside for now. 

Next, tie in some Tinsel or Sparkle Body at the end of the hook shank.  Wrap it up  the hook shank to cover your thread base.  Tie and clip off the tag end.  Where your thread and body ends, you are going to tie in some Long Fiber Dubbing.  Take a clump and tie it to the hook shank.  Take a few loose wraps and with your fingers, press and form it around the hook shank.  Now pull the forward facing fibers rearward and tie them in place.  After removing your hook from the vice, take your precut Rabbit Zonker and pierce it with the hook point.  Pull the strip forward so that it rests on the hook shank.  Return your hook to the vice.  Secure the forward end of the strip with tight thread wraps. 

Take a piece of Cross-cut Rabbit Strip and tie it in at the front of the Back/Tail (you can use another Zonker Strip but make sure you sweep back the hair fibers as you wrap it around the shank).  Wrap it 2-3 times around the hook shank sweeping all hair fibers rearward.  Capture it with your thread and trim off the waste.  Your going to make multiple wraps to secure everything and form a solid base for your Skull Head.  You are now going to ‘test fit’ your Skull helmet on the fly.  You may need to build up your thread wraps if it fits too loosely.  Once your feel that the helmet fits to your liking, remove it from the hook shank.  Apply your adhesive of choice at the end of the hook shank (ultimately under the Fish Skull Head).  (I use Liquid Fusion).  Re-affix your Fish Skull on the hook.  I push mine back enough so that I have room to make some securing thread wraps in front of the Helmet.  When your Helmet is in place, splay and press the hair fibers of your collar flat on each side of it.  Place a drop of adhesive on your thread wraps in front of the Helmet, and in the eye sockets.  Place an adhesive, then your eyes in the sockets.  I then cover the eyes with UV resin to ensure durability.  Finally, I’ll use a magic marker to create a ‘barred’ effect on the fly body.

There is a great instructional video by McFly Angler below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at . 

Saturday, August 29, 2020

Paul's September 2020 Bonus Fly of the Month

Rhody (Two Feather) Flat Wing 

Hook:  Gamakatsu SC15 Wide Gap Hook Size 2/0, or Eagle Claw 253, or preferred hook. 

Thread:  Uni Mono Thread or White Uni-thread 3/0.

Tail:  White Bucktail over which is a white saddle hackle, topped with 2 strands of pearl Flash-a-bou, topped with a grizzly chartreuse saddle hackle, topped with 2 more strands of pearl Flash-a-bou.

Body:  A few more pieces of Flash-a-bou, or Bill’s Body Braid, or tinsel palmered forward.

Under Wing/Belly: White Bucktail.

Wing:  Chartreuse Bucktail extending almost to the tip of the tale.  On top of the Wing is 5-6 strands of Peacock Herl.

Eyes (optional):  3D Living Eyes to match fly size or Jungle Cock.

This fly is just a great bait fish imitation.  It was developed by Rhode Islander Bill Peabody, of Bill’s Body Braid fame.  (I love the ‘Goldie’ fly with that material.)  It was also popularized by Ken Abrames with his series of RLS Flies.  If you fly fish the salt in New England, you must own a copy of Abrames’ Striper Moon. 

This fly can be tweaked to imitate pretty much any bait fish.  Casts like a dream too.  Experiment with size and color.  I tie them in chartreuse, yellow, olive & black.  Abrames is very specific in terms of the number of fibers, feathers, and flash used in his RLS flat wing flies.  Too much material on ‘flat wings’ might restrict the feathers from movement ‘side to side’.   He also felt that a sparser tied fly more readily revealed the colors found in bait fish.

To tie this fly, start your thread behind the eye and wrap to the bend of the hook.  You are now going to tie in some sparse White Bucktail.  It should extend 1 ½ to 2 times the length of the hook shank.  Select a white saddle hackle to lie flat over the bucktail.  Before you tie it in, strip the fuzzy/webby part of the feather and dub it onto your tying thread.  Build a dubbing pillow at the tie in point of your bucktail.   This will be the base upon which you will lay and tie in your White Saddle Hackle.  After tying in your hackle, clip off the butt end and top it with two strands of pearl Flash-a-bou.  Next, tie in your grizzly chartreuse saddle hackle.  Place it right on top of your white saddle.  It will be the same length.   Clip off the butt end and tie in your body material.  You can use additional strands of Flash-a-bou, Bill’s Body Braid, or material of your choice.  Palmer the material forward with even wraps.  Tie it off behind the eye and clip the excess.  Next, invert your hook and tie in your White Bucktail belly.  Tie it in behind the eye.  It should extend halfway down your tail.  Invert your fly again for your top wing.  Tie in a clump of Chartreuse Bucktail.  It should extend a little further then the length of your fly belly.  Next, on top of the chartreuse wing tie in 5-6 strands of Peacock Herl.  Whip finish the fly and apply head cement or favorite adhesive.  Eyes are optional.  I’ve seen some tiers use 3D Living Eyes.  Others have used Jungle Cock.  Some not at all.

Trident Fly Fishing has a nice video on how to tie this fly below:

Their website can also be reached at .

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at

Thursday, August 27, 2020

Paul's September 2020 Fly of the Month

 Pheasant Tail 'Hot Spot' Variation

Hook:  Firehole Sticks 317 Size #16  (you can also use a TMC 2457, or TMC 2487 or any Curved Nymph/Emerger hook). 

Thread:  UTC 70 Denier in Fluorescent Orange.

Bead:  3.0 mm Copper Tungsten Bead. 

Tail:  3-4 Pheasant tail fibers.

Rib (& Tail Hot Spot):  UTC Hot Orange Wire BR Size.

Body/Abdomen:  Approximately 4 Pheasant Tail Fibers.

Collar/Thorax:  Natural CDC fibers (from dubbing loop); followed by ‘Hare’s Ear’ dubbing (from a dubbing loop).

Hot Spot Behind Bead:  Fluorescent Orange Thread.

When trying to determine what fly to submit for the Fly of the Month, I try to choose one that’s catches fish, use’s materials that aren’t too difficult to obtain, and that I’ve used or field tested at least a few times.  I’ve been doing the Fly of the Month for many years.  This is the second time I’m doing a variation on the a Pheasant Tail Nymph.   (A few years ago I featured the Quasimoto Pheasant Tail Nymph.)  Most fly guys already know what a great fly the Pheasant tail iss.  Well here’s a variation with a few triggers that just might catch that finicky trout.  It has an Orange Wire Hot Spot at the rear, and an Orange Thread Hot Spot in the front.  It also has a CDC Fiber and Hare’s Ear dubbed thorax.  Why wouldn’t a fish want to eat this fly!

Before tying this fly, keep in mind that there are many new manufacturers of hooks out there.  Some are from China, the USA, or Europe.  The actual sizes of these hooks can vary substantially.  No matter which hook you use, or the size, what’s important are the proportions of each segment of the fly. 

To tie this fly, begin by placing your bead on the hook.  Start your thread behind the bead.  Cut your tag end as you wrap down the hook shank to where  you would normally find the hook barb (assuming your using a barbless hook).  Next, tie in your Pheasant Tail fibers for your tail.  They should be approximately the length of the hook shank.  Wrap your thread all the way up to behind the bead to firmly secure them and create an even thread base body. Take a 4” piece of your Rib wire and tie it in behind the bead.  Wrap it down to your Pheasant Tail fibers then bring your thread up to the midpoint of your fly.  You are now going to create a ‘tag’ with the wire.  Make 4-5 ‘counter’ wraps with your wire to create a wire tag.  Leave the wire hanging off the hook shank so you can use it as a rib.  Next, tie in 4 Pheasant Tail fibers to be used for the body of the fly.  Secure it down to the wire tag and then bring your thread back behind the bead.  Take even wraps of the Pheasant Tail fibers up the hook shank, leaving an ‘eye’ length space before the bead.  Tie and clip it off.  With your wire, palmer and rib your fly.  Tie and clip the wire off at the same location where your Pheasant Tail body ends.  Now, create a small dubbing loop with your thread.  Take fibers from a single natural CDC feather and place them into your loop.  Spin and form a rope.  Take 2-3 turns with your rope.  Your fibers should surround the hook shank and result in a ‘wet fly’ type appearance.  Make sure to leave room behind the bead for another additional dubbing and a hot spot.  Create another small dubbing loop with your thread.  Your going to place ‘your preferred’ Hare’s Ear dubbing in the loop and for another rope.  Take 2-3 turns with your dubbing loop.  Clip and tie off your ‘Hare’s Ear’ dubbing loop.  Finally, create a small thread ‘Hot Spot’ right behind the bead.  Clip and tie off your thread.

‘The Fly Fiend’ has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at . 

Thursday, June 4, 2020

Paul's June 2020 Fly of the Month

Paul's Covid Cure

Hook:  Daiichi 1120, or TMC 2457, or TMC 2487 #14 Curved Nymph/Emerger hook.  (I prefer the TMC 2487)
Thread:  Black.
Bead:  Tungsten Rainbow Bead, either 2.4 mm or 2.8 mm.
Body:  Black UTC medium wire.
Rib:  Red UTC small wire.
Finish:  Coat the entire fly with UV resin.

I started tying and fishing this fly this past spring.  Boy has it produced fish.  It’s a very easy and simple fly to tie.  Consisting of only 3 materials – red wire, black wire, and a rainbow bead.   Last fall I fished a wet fly constructed with a black & red wire wrapped down the hook shank with a soft hackle.  I caught a lot of fish on it.  I wanted to continue to fish this red wire/black wire combo in other fly designs and came up with this ‘sort of’ perdigon fly.  I didn’t put a tail on it.  Just wanted to test fish it first and found the fish loved it.  This fly sinks like a rock and really gets down.  Once finished with UV Resin, it’s very iridescent. 

To tie this fly, begin by placing your bead on the hook.  I’ve used both 2.4 & 2.8 mm beads for this pattern.  Tie in your red wire to be used for the rib.  I tie it in behind the bead and wrap down the bend of the hook past the hook point.  Next bring your thread back behind the bead.  Tie in your black wire and wrap down the bend of the hook to where your red wire begins.  With your thread, create a slim tapered body.  Return your thread behind the eye.    With your black wire, make even and tight wraps around the hook shank all the way to the eye.  Tie it off and ‘helicopter’ or trim off the tag end.  Now with your red wire, wrap it up the body in the opposite direction, creating an evenly segmented body.  Tie it off and ‘helicopter’ or trim off the tag end.  Whip finish the fly.  Now apply your favorite UV resin to the fly.  Cure it, and you’re done.

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at

Monday, May 4, 2020

Paul's May 2020 Bonus Fly of the Month

Beck's Super Bugger

Hook:  Size # 6 & #8 Tiemco 3761 or preferred hook.
Colors:  Tan, Black or Olive.
Thread:  Tan, Black or Olive.
Tail:  Tan, Black or Olive Marabou Blood Feather, over which is overlayed 6 strands of Krystal Flash.
Body:  Dyed Grizzly Hen body feathers palmered forward.
Legs:  Two rubber Sili-legs, root beer, black or olive.
Eyes:  Lead eyes painted Yellow and Black, XSmall on Size #8, Small on Size #6.
Head:  Spiked dubbing figure-eighted around the eyes.  Or, use dubbing brush.  (I like to use a dubbing loop of matching Ice Dub)

This fly was developed by fly fisher Cathy Beck.  She designed it to create more underwater vibration.  It also has fantastic movement.  Because the eyes are mounted on top of the hook shank the fly fishes ‘inverted’ and has great jigging action.  It will also prevent your fly from snagging on the bottom.

Begin by placing your hook in the vice.  Start your thread and wrap from the eye back approximately ¼ of the hook shank.  You are now going to tie on your eyes.  I form two little bumps that I mount the eyes between.  They should be two eye lengths back on the hook shank.  Secure the yes by figure eight wraps and apply come head cement or super glue.  Bring your tying thread back to the hook bend.  Tie in 6 strands of Krystal Flash.  It should be approximately the length of the hook shank beyond the bend.  Tie in your marabou tail.  It will be the same length as your Krystal Flash.  Next, tie in the first of  your grizzly hen hackles.  Palmer the hackle forward in the direction of  your eyes.  Keep your wraps tight building your body.  It will take a few feathers to create your body.  End behind your eyes. In front of your eyes, tie in two Sili-legs at their mid point.  Bring your thread behind the eyes and lock them in place there with figure eight wraps.  Make sure the legs are equal in distance on both sides of the hook shank.  Next dub around the head including more figure eight wraps around the eyes.  You can dub the material on the thread, or you can create a dubbing loop (I like to use matching Ice Dub), or use a dubbing brush.  Tie off and whip finish behind the eye.  Apply head cement and your fly is finished. 

There is a great video on how to tie this fly below:

Barry and Cathy Beck have a website & blog at . 

 If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at .