Thursday, May 6, 2021

Paul's May 2021 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Jigged Golden Retriever


Hook:  Tiemco TMC Size #8 413J Jig Hook.

Bead:  Gold Tungsten Slotted bead 5/32”.

Tying thread:   Red Danville’s Flat Waxed Nylon.

Weight:  Lead Wire .025.

Tail:  Wooly Bugger Tan Marabou.

Body:  Gold Estaz standard size. 

This fly originates from the Mossy Creek Fly Shop in Harrisonburg, VA.  It’s a variation of a bugger called the Golden Retriever, which is tied on a standard streamer hook.  (It was a featured Fly of the Month many years ago)  I’ve been tying more and more streamers on a jig hooks lately.  The jerking action created by the jig hook makes this fly so much more deadly.  It also helps to prevent snagging bottom.  Some fly guys know that this is one of the ‘secret magic flies’.  It catches fish everywhere and if you fish Grand Lake Stream in ME, this fly is a must in your box.  You can tie these in a variety of colors, but this fly has made it’s name with gold Estaz and a tan Marabou tail.  A great fish catcher that can also be used as an anchor fly that gets your rig deep. 

Normally you can use a thread of your preference for the flies I feature.  In this case I strongly recommend you use Danville’s Flat Waxed Nylon.  

To tie this fly place your tungsten bead on the hook.  With the hook in your vice,   start you Lead Wire on the hook shank at approximately the location above the hook point.  Make wraps up to the bead.  Break off your lead wire.  Next, start your Red Thread behind the Lead wraps to lock it in place.  After you create a thread dam behind the lead, wrap your thread forward covering your lead wraps. 

Make sure all of the lead is covered.  Your ‘underbody’ should be all Red thread.

Advance your thread back to the end of the hook shank.  You’re now going to tie in your Marabou Tail.  It should be 1 to 1 ½ hook shank in length.  When you tie it in your actually filling in the hook shank behind your lead wraps to create an even symmetrical fly body.  Next, tie in your Gold Estaz at your Marabou tie in point.  Make sure the Estaz fibers are facing ‘down’ when you tie it in so that the fibers end up pointing rearward on the hook.  Now, palmer the Estaz forward making even wraps that leave some of your Red Thread underbody exposed.  When you wrap it forward with one hand stroke the fibers rearward with the other hand.  End your wraps behind the bead.  Tie the Estaz off with your thread.  Clip off the butt end.  Whip finish the fly with your thread creating a small red ‘hotspot’ behind the bead.  Apply some head cement. 

Mossy Creek Fly fishing has a great instructional video on how to tie the Jigged Golden Retriever below:


If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com

Wednesday, May 5, 2021

Paul's May 2021 Fly of the Month

 Corn Fed Caddis


 

Hook:  TMC Size # 14 1X Dry Fly Hook or hook of choice. 

Thread:  MFC Light Brown 6/0 Thread.

Shuck:  Antron Yarn PMD Shuck/Olive.

Rib:  Tan Tying Thread.

Body/Thorax:  Super Fine Tan Dubbing.

Wing/Hackle:  Natural CDC – 4 feathers. 

Over Wing:  White Para Post Wing Material.

Collar/Head:  Additional dubbing with a dubbing loop of CDC fibers wrapped over it. 

This is a great caddis imitation.  It floats like a cork and the movement of the CDC fibers mimics that of a living insect.  Give it a try and I guarantee it will become one of your favorite patterns. 

I’ve tied all of my Corn Fed Caddis on a Size #14 hook.  There is a lot of material on this hook shank so please be aware that proportion is everything to tie this fly correctly.  Also, creating a dubbing loop of CDC is not an easy matter.  With practice you can master it. 

To tie this fly, begin your thread a couple eye lengths behind the eye.  Wrap down to the bend.  Next, prepare your Antron Shuck material.  Usually, half of strand of material is enough.  Tie it in at the bend of the hook.  Wrap the butt end up the hook shank.  Cut it off and wrap back down to the bend.  Trim the Shuck so that it is ½ the hook shank length beyond the bend.  Bring your thread back up the hook shank.  Create a thread loop and bind it down along the hook shank.  After it is secured, cut the loop so that the tag end extends beyond the bend and shuck.  This is going to be your rib.  

Now dub the body with Super Fine Dubbing. The body should be approximately 2/3 the hook shank length.  Next, counter wrap your rib forward creating a segmented body.  Tie and cut the rib off.  Align the tips of 4 CDC feathers so that they are relatively even.  These feathers will be your wing.  Tie them on the top of the hook shank.  They should extend to the halfway point of the shuck.  Once the wing is securely tied down trim the butts.  ‘Clean them up’ with your tying thread to create an even base.  Next, tie on your Para Post Wing.  For a size #14 fly use approximately ½ to 2/3 strand of material.  The Para Post makes your fly more visible in the water.  Tie a 3” strand in at it’s midpoint, then fold back the material to lay on top of your CDC Wing.  You then want to trim it so that it’s slightly shorter than your CDC Wing.  Again, use your thread to even out the remaining ‘head area’ of your fly.  Then apply a small amount of dubbing for the base of your head.  On the back side of the head, create a ‘dubbing loop’ to make a ‘brush’ of CDC fibers.  You can do this by creating a loop with your thread or by splitting the thread with a bodkin.  Take the fibers of two CDC feathers and insert them into your loop/thread create your dubbing brush.  Once the CDC brush is constructed, palmer it through your ‘head’ to create a buggy head/collar.  Tie it off behind the eye.  Clip off the tag end and whip finish your fly.  

Fly Fish Food has a great instructional video on how to tie this fly below:



If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com . 

Wednesday, April 21, 2021

Fly Fishing with Friends Spring 2021

This blog is suppose to be about Fly Fishing, Fly Tying, & Friends.  I haven't posted a lot about fishing with my friends lately.  So this post is dedicated to them. I'm so fortunate to fish with them.  It's what it's all about for me at this stage of my Fly Fishing Journey.  One other thing that I'm thankful for is the Fly Fishing here in Connecticut!  Few realize how lucky we are here.  We can fish for trout, warm water species, and stripers.  All in the same day if we desire. So far, it's been an extremely rewarding Spring!  (all photos taken Spring of 2021)

Mike Shannon


                            Me & Nephew Nick LaRocca


                          Nick LaRocca & Mike Shannon



 Me 

                                     George Pieger

Brian Carvalho


Ted Rzepski

John Bilotta

William Stone with first striper ever.

William Stone & Will Stone.
                          Father & Son Fishing the Hous.

Wayne Gustafson

Ben Marouski

Jeff Purcell

Tuesday, April 6, 2021

Paul's April 2021 Fly of the Month

 Clueless Caddis Dry Dropper Fly



Hook:  Size # 12 Barbless Dry Fly Hook of choice. 

Thread:  6/0 Olive Thread.

Rib:  Tag End of Thread.

Body:  Tan/Orange Dry Fly Dubbing.

Underwing:  Two Natural CDC Feathers aligned tip to tip.  Over which is synthetic Wing Material such as Antron, Trigger Point, or McFlylon. 

Over Wing:  Deer or Elk Hair.

Finish:  High N Dry Liquid Fly Floatant.  

I don’t know why I don’t fish dry dropper rigs more.  I’m going to make an effort to do it a lot more this coming year.   When I was out to Montana, other fly guys I ran into were all fishing a ‘Hopper & dropper’ set up.  While hoppers do catch fish here in New England, I was looking for a dry fly with enough ‘floatability’ for my dropper, and also one that mimicked flies on my home waters.  Friend Mike Shannon fishes a dry dropper set up a lot.  His lead dry fly is tied with a large amount of CDC and floats like a cork.  It’s what led me to this fly.  Since I’ve been doing the Fly of the Month. I try to pick patterns where materials can be substituted or aren’t that difficult to obtain.  So it’s somewhat unusual that I strongly recommend a specific fly finish.  High N Dry Liquid Floatant does a fantastic job adding to the ‘floatability’ of the fly.  If there is another fly treatment you prefer, then use that. 

To tie this fly begin your thread approximately ¼ hook shank length behind the eye.  You need to leave a long tag end of the thread that will be used as your rib.  Wrap your thread back to the bend of the hook.  You’re now going to dub your body.  You can use a dry fly dubbing of your choice.  At times I’ve used a CDC dubbing or made my body from a CDC dubbing brush.  The choice is yours.  After creating your body that will end at your tie in point, take open wraps with the tag end of the thread.  This will create a segmented body.  After tying and cutting off the tag end of the thread, you are now ready to tie on your Under wing & Over wing.  There’s a lot of material that goes into the wing of the fly which is why leaving space behind the eye is so important.   Begin your Underwing by aligning two CDC feathers at their tips.   Tie them in at the top of the hook shank.  They should be slightly longer than the body of the fly.  Cut off the but ends of the CDC feathers and even things out with additional thread wraps & dubbing. Be careful not to use too much.)  Now tie in your Antron Wing material.  You are going to double the material over your tying thread.  Tie in ½ first, then lay the forward strand back with the first.  Leave it long for now.  We will trim it at the end.  Again, even things out with additional thread wraps & dubbing.  (Be careful not to use too much. There’s a lot going onto the wing.)  Now tie in your Elk or Deer Hair Wing.  The technique is exactly the same as tying any ‘Elk Hair Caddis’.   Tie off and cut your thread.  Then trim the butt ends of your elk or deer hair.  Now, trim your Antron Wing so that it is slightly longer than the other wing materials.  You’re almost done.  A very important component of this fly is to ‘pre-treat’ it with  High N Dry Liquid Fly Floatant or a similar treatment of your choice.  I dip my flies and let them dry overnight.  Your now good to go and use it in your ‘dry dropper rig’. 

Trout Yeah has a great instructional video on how to tie this fly below:



If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com .  



Thursday, April 1, 2021

Paul's April 2021 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Evil Olive Nymph






Hook:  Dai-Riki #125  Size #18 Emerger Hook.

Bead:  Black 5/64” Tungsten Bead.

Tying thread:   Light Olive, UTC 70 Denier Ultra Thread.

Rib:  Ultra Wire Gold Small Size.

Tail:  Dyed Mallard flank fibers dyed wood duck.

Body:  Light Olive touching thread wraps.

Wing Case:  Butts of the Dyed Mallard flank fibers dyed wood duck.

Thorax:  Olive SLF Prism Dubbing.

Legs:  Pearl Krystal Flash.

Finish:  UV Resin on the Wing Case.

This is a great little nymph.  Many consider it a baetis imitation.  Others an attractor fly.  It’s kind of a cross between a Higa SOS nymph and the WD-40.   

Begin by mashing down your barb and placing your tungsten bead on the hook.  Start and affix your thread behind the eye of the hook.  Make touching wraps back to the hook point.  Now tie in your Wire Rib.  To secure the wire, take wraps deep into the bend.  Next, prepare a clump of Mallard fibers for your tail.  When you separate them from the feather, make sure the tips are aligned.  Tie them in at the thread location.  The tail should be approximately a ‘hook gap’ length.   Make thread wraps forward binding down the fibers until your thread is behind the bead.  When you do this keep the fibers on top of the hook shank.  Do not cut off the butt ends of the fibers.  With your thread create a tapered nymph body.  Bring your thread back so that it’s any eye length behind the bead.  Next, take open spiral wraps up the hook shank with your rib to create a segmented body.  When you reach your tying thread, use it to bind down the wire.  ‘Helicopter’ or cut the butt end of the rib. 

Bring your thread down the hook shank so that it hangs at the hook point.  Pull back and bind down the butts of your Mallard fibers.  You are going to use them for your wing case.  Next, dub a slim thorax with your Olive SLF Prism Dubbing.  Leave your thread behind the bead.  For legs you’re going to use two strands of Krystal Flash.  Tie them in at their mid-point behind the bead with figure eight wraps.  Take additional wraps in front of the and coax them back so that they face rearward.  Now, pull the Mallard butts forward to create the wing case.  You should have two legs on each side of the wing case.  Take two or three thread wraps behind the bead to bind down the fibers.  Pull the Krystal flash rearward and trim them even with the back of the hook.  Now, pick the Mallard fibers up and snip them off close to the bead.  Whip finish your fly and cut off your thread.  To enhance the wing case apply some UV Resin on top of it.  Cure it with your light, and your done. 

Tightlinevideo has a great instructional video below:




If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com 




Tuesday, March 2, 2021

Paul's March Bonus 2021 Fly of the Month

 Commisa's Sneak Attack


Hook:  Hanak H 450 BL Size #16 (or jig hook of choice).

Bead:  Matte Black Tungsten slotted 3.0 mm.

Tying thread:   Black, Semperfli 12/0 waxed.

Tail:  Coq de Leon, medium pardo.

Body:  Black Krystal Flash.

UV Resin:  To coat body.  Solarez Bone Dry (or resin of choice).

Thorax/Collar:  Red Sybai Fine Diamond Dubbing. (This is a metallic ‘Ice Dubbing’ like material.)

Tim Commisa provides us fly fishers with some of the best & most informative fly tying videos out there.  His website http://www.troutandfeather.com/ is a fantastic resource for tyers & fly fishers.  So, when he tells you that he’s somewhat reluctant to post his ‘secret fly’, I’m going to listen.  This fly has caught me quite a few fish this summer.

To tie this fly begin by placing your tungsten bead on the hook.  Place the hook in your vice and start your thread behind the bead.  Build up a little thread ‘dam’ behind the bead to ensure the bead doesn’t move.  Next, you are going to tie in your Coq de Leon tail.  Take 4-5 feather fibers and tie in your tail.  It should be approximately the length of the hook shank long.  After securely wrapping the tail fibers on top of the hook shank, clip off the butt ends of the fibers.  You are now going to tie in your Black Krystal Flash body material.  You will need 4 strands of the material.  You can also ‘double over’ 2 strands of material by folding them over your hanging thread and anchoring them at the front of the fly.  You can then wrap them over them on top of your hook working back towards the back of the fly.   Bring your thread back behind the bead.  Using a controlled tension, wrap your 4 strands of Krystal Flash forward.  Tie if off behind the bead and clip off the tag ends.  Next, take your Solarez Bone Dry or resin of choice, and coat the body with the resin.  Cure the resin with a UV light.  You are now going to dub your Thorax/Collar behind the bead.  It does not take much material to create the Thorax/Collar, especially with a size #16 fly.  Take a couple wraps with your dubbing noodle.  Create a very tight collar.  Clip any excess straying dubbing material.  Take a few wraps of your thread behind the bead.  Whip finish it there and apply head cement if you desire. 

One of the great things about fly tying is you can experiment to meet the needs of your local stream, or to just experiment for the fun of it.  With this pattern I’ve used different colored Krystal Flash and collars depending upon what’s happening on the water. 

Tim Cammissa has a great instructional video on how to tie this fly below:


If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com .  



Monday, March 1, 2021

Paul's March 2021 Fly of the Month

Jigawocki 

(UV Hot Spot Jig Nymph)



Hook:  Daiichi 4640 Size #14 Jig Hook (or jig hook of choice).

Bead:  Black Tungsten Slotted bead 7/64” 2.8mm.

Tying Thread:   Veevus Brown 14/0 thread.

Tail:  Mottled Brown Hen Saddle Fibers.

Rib:  Copper Brown Ultra Wire Small.

Body:  Veevus Hot Orange Body Quill, coated with UV Resin.

Thorax/Collar:  Mixture of Hare’s Ear and Black & Brown Ice Dub.

Legs:  Mottled Brown Hen Saddle Fibers tied in at the 3 o’clock & 9 o’clock positions.

Wing Case/Hot Spot:  Clear UV Finish topped by Orange or Red, or Yellow UV Finish.  (You also have the alternative of creating a hot spot behind the bead with thread.)

This is a great little nymph that works very well, particularly during those days prior to a Sulphur Hatch.  The use of a 14/0 Thread makes for a thinner body, allowing the nymph to sink deeper faster.  Please note that tying on a Jig Hook results in a smaller nymph.  It would equate to a Size #16 on a standard hook.  Proportion is everything with this fly.  Also, take your time applying your UV Hot Spot.  Not an easy task when your applying it between legs and onto dubbing fibers.

To begin this fly, place your tungsten bead on the hook, then your hook in the vice.  Start your thread behind the bead and wrap back to the bend of the hook.  You are now going to tie in your tail of Mottled Brown Hen Saddle Fibers.  Take 6-7 fibers and tie them in at the bend of the hook shank.  They should be approximately 2/3rds the length of the hook shank.  Instead of cutting off the butt ends of the fibers, wrap your thread back up the shank towards the bead.  You should end your thread behind the bead, forming an even body.  Next, take a strand of the Veevus Body Quill.  Double it over your thread and secure it to the hook.  Now tie in your Copper Rib.  Wrap both materials down to your hook bend.  Again, making sure to form an even slim body.  Bring your thread back up behind the eye.

You are now going to make ‘touching’ wraps with your body quill up the hook shank.  Tie it off slightly behind the bead.  Cut off the butt ends.  Now, rib the fly with your copper wire, again tying it off slightly behind the hook eye.  Tie it off and ‘helicopter’ off the butt end of the rib.  Coat and cure the body of the fly with UV Resin.  This gives a very translucent effect to the body.  You are now going to ‘dub’ your Thorax/Collar with a mixture of Hare’s Ear & Ice Dub.  Create a slim Thorax/Collar leaving a little room behind the bead.  It’s right behind the bead that you’re going to affix your legs of Hen fibers.  Tie your legs in at the 3:00 & 9:00 positions (5-6 fibers per side).  Dub a little more material behind the bead to finish your Thorax/Collar.  Tie and whip finish it off.  You are now going to create your Wing Case/Hot Spot with two applications of UV Resin.  First, apply a clear coat of UV Resin behind the bead.  This will create a base for your colored UV finish.  After you apply and cure your clear finish, apply your ‘hot spot’ UV finish.  You can use red, orange, or yellow.  Cure it and your done.  If you don’t have any or don’t want to use UV Finish, simply create a hot spot with thread behind the bead.

Loon Outdoors has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

                                                                   

Loon Outdoors website can be found at https://loonoutdoors.com/ .

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of the Month I can be reached at 203 305-3850 or at pdinice@frontier.com .