Epoxy Back Nymph
Hook: Daiichi 1550 or nymph hook of choice Size #14-#20.
Tying thread: Uni 8/0 in black, brown, or olive.
Bead: Copper colored bead.
Tail: Brown hen neck fibers.
Abdomen: Black, brown, or olive Ice Dub over which is palmered a color matching goose or turkey biot.
Rib: Fine red wire.
Rib: Fine red wire.
Pearl mylar tinsel or ribbon.
Thorax: Black, brown, or olive Ice Dub.
Legs: Brown hen neck fibers.
Top of nymph: Coated with 5 minute epoxy or U.V. resin.
This is one of my top 6 go to nymphs on the Housatonic and the
With a tungsten bead and an epoxy back, this nymph gets down deep in a hurry. I’ve had great success with it in all three colors (black, brown, & olive). When I tie it in olive, I usually tie it in smaller sizes, sometimes using it as a dropper behind a large dry fly.
Start the thread at the eye. Wrap down the hook to the hook bend. Tie in your hen tail fibers. Next, tie in your red wire to be used for your ribbing. Now tie in your turkey or goose biot by the pointy tip. Please note that one side (raised edge) of the biot will give you a more segmented look once it’s wrapped up the hook shank. Dub the abdomen with Ice Dub. It should have a very slim profile. Next, get your hackle pliers and palmer the biot over the dubbed abdomen. Leave a little space between the wraps. This adds to the visual segmentation of the abdomen. When I tie this nymph in a size #20 I usually forgo the Ice Dub. Because the fly is so small I form the abdomen by wrapping the biot over itself. Once the abdomen is formed, tie and cut off the biot. Now counter wrap the red wire up the abdomen. Tie and cut it off. Next tie in a thin piece of mylar tinsel or ribbon for a wing case. Dub your thorax with Ice Dub. Tie in your legs of hen neck fibers on each side of the nymph, just behind the bead. Bring your pearl tinsel forward and tie it off at the bead.
Finally, give the top of the wing case a coat of U.V. resin or 5 minute epoxy.