Paul's October 2026 Fly of the Month

 Jame's 'Jim' Krul's Foam Stimulator

Hook:  Ahrex Tp650 Size #6 Streamer or Diachi1268 Curved Nymph Size #6.

Thread:  6/0 or 8/0 Orange, Red or Black. 

Tail:  Badger (or Elk/Deer Hair).

Body Hackle:  Grizzley (or Brown) Hackle palmered through the body.

Body:  Cut strip of Orange 2mm Foam. 

Wing:  Badger (or Elk/Deer Hair).

Thorax: Strip of Yellow 2mm Foam.

Hackle: Grizzley (or Brown) Hackle palmered through the body.

This past winter I was fortunate to attend a fly-tying session led by James ‘Jim’ Krul.  Jim is the former Director of the Catskill Fly Fishing museum.  He’s also contributed to a number of Fly Fishing & Tying magazines and publications.  He provided a wealth of information on how to tie and fish this fly.  I was very interested because I use Stimulators for my ‘Dry/Dropper’ rigs.  This Foam version is extremely easy to see in the water and has better floatability than the traditional floss bodied Stimulators.  It is also different in that it uses Badger for the tail and wing.  If you don’t have badger, just substitute Elk/Deer Hair for the tail and wing.

To tie this fly, start your thread behind the eye.  Make securing wraps and cut off the butt end.  Cover the hook shank with thread, ending your thread even with the hook point.  You are now going to tie in your tail.  Take a small bunch of Badger, stack it if you so desire, and tie it in.  It should extend approximately a hook gap length beyond the bend of the hook. 

At the tie in point of your tail, tie in your body Hackle. It should be a hook size or two smaller than the hook you’re tying on.  Next, tie in a prepared strip of Orange 2mm foam.  You can cut a narrow strip of foam with your scissors, or if your tying multiple flies, use a paper cutter to cut foam strips 2 mm in width.  Bring your thread just beyond the halfway point of your hook shank.  Wrap your Foam strip forward (You want just enough tension when wrapping to form a smooth body) and tie it off with your thread.  Cut off the butt end.  With segmented wraps, palmer your Hackle forward and tie it off with your thread.  Cut off the butt end.  This completes the first segment/body of your fly.

Next, tie in your Badger (or Elk/Deer hair) wing.  It should be a little thicker than your tail and extend halfway down the Tail of the fly.  Once secured, trim off the butt ends and with your thread, lay down a smooth base for the rest of the fly.  Bring your thread back to the wing tie in point.  Tie in an additional Grizzley Hackle.  You can size it to the hook, or when I’m tying this fly, and my hackle feather is long enough, I use the excess body hackle for my Thorax.  After tying in your Hackle, tie in a prepared strip of Yellow Foam.  Again, it should be approximately 2 mm in width.   Wrap it forward and tie it off behind the eye.  Cut off the butt end.  Now wrap your Hackle forward and tie it off behind the eye.  Whip finish your fly and apply a drop of Head Cement if you so desire.  

Winonafly Factory has a nice video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's September 2026 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Bubble Caddis

Hook:  Dry Fly Sizes #12-#16.
Thread:  6/0 Tan or Wood Duck. 
Body:  Ginger Caddis dubbing.
Wing:  Elk Hair.
Thorax/Wingcase:  2mm strip of Close Cell foam & Ginger Caddis Dubbing. 
 
This was one of my top flies the past couple of years. It tends to work really well for finicky trout when they are on Caddis Emergers. 
 
To tie this fly start your thread behind the eye.  Make securing wraps and cut off the butt end.  Wrap your thread along the hook shank down to the bend of the hook.  Dub a noodle of your Ginger Caddis dubbing.  (You can use your preferred caddis dubbing for this fly.)  Dub the body of the fly 2/3ds up the hook shank towards the eye of the hook.  You are now going to affix your Elk Hair wing to the fly, similar to any other Elk Hair Caddis pattern.  When affixing the wing you want to trim the butt end of the wing closely. You will cover the butt ends of the fly with your tying thread.  The wing should lay flat along the body of the fly.
 
Next, prepare a strip of Closed Cell Foam for your Wing case.  I use a 2mm sheet.  Cut a strip of foam no wider than the gap of your hook (approximately 2-3 mm in width).  Trim it to a point on one end. You will tie the foam in by the trimmed tip with the rest extending beyond the eye of the hook.  Wind your thread forward toward the eye of the hook with securing wraps.  When you get to the eye, create another dubbing noodle with your dubbing.  Dub the thorax of the fly.  After dubbing the thorax, bring your thread back down to the wing tie in point.  Now fold your Foam/Wing case rearward and secure it with wraps of your thread.  Whip finish your fly at this location.  Apply some head cement to your thread if you desire.   Finally, trim your foam so that it is approximately half the sized of your wing case. 

Dave McPhail has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's September 2026 Fly of the Month

 Foam Pheasant Tail Emerger

Hook:  F-120 Klink or TMC 2487 Curved Emerger Hook Size #12 & #14. 

Thread:  Fluorescent Orange 8/0.

Tail:  4-5 strands Pheasant Tail Fibers.

Hot Spot: 

Rib:  Small Copper Wire.

Body:  4-5 Tips of Pheasant Tail Fibers.

Wing Case/Foam:  Brown or Yellow 3 mm Cylindrical Foam.

Thorax:  Strand of Peacock Hurl. 

Legs:  3-4 Strands of Pheasant Tail Fibers on each side.

Like everyone, I love fishing Pheasant Tail flies.  This pattern is a little different in that it’s floated high up in the surface film.  It’s a super fly and one of my go too’s!  It floats well and has a nice bright hot spot to entice trout to bite.  

To tie this fly, start your thread behind the eye of the hook.  After making securing wraps cut off your tag end. Wrap down the hook shank and create a bulbus bump for your fly ‘hot spot’.  Please note that some tyers like to tie in their tail of Pheasant Fibers first and then create the ‘hot spot’ after it.  I like to do it before affixing the tail fibers.  When I’m tying multiple flies, I can prepare the hooks with a UV Resin Cured ‘hot spot’ a head of time.  Back to tying the fly– Once you create a small bulbus ‘hot spot’, apply a small drop of UV Resin and cure it.  Next tie in your tail of 4-5 Pheasant Fibers.  The tail should be approximately a ‘hook gap’ in length. 

After cutting off the excess butt ends of your tail, tie in your Small Copper Wire for your ribbing.  Next tie in 4-5 additional Pheasant Tail Fibers by their tips.  With the fibers, wrap and create the body of your fly 2/3rds up the hook shank.  Tie the fibers off and cut off the butt ends.  Now counter rib your fly with your Copper Wire with evenly spaced wraps up the body.  Tie it off and helicopter off the excess wire.  

Next, tie in your Foam Cylinder.  I usually notch the front end before I tie it in.  Also, as an alternative, you can just cut and create a foam wing case by simply cutting a 3mm sized strip of closed cell foam.  Tie the Wing Case in and sweep it back rearward.  Tie in a strand of Peacock Hurl at your Wing Case tie in point.  Palmer it forward to create your Thorax.  Tie it off behind the eye.  Cut off the tag end.  On each side of the nymph, tie in 3 strands of Pheasant Tail Fibers for your legs.  The legs should extend about a ‘hook’ gap length on each side of the nymph.  Cut off the excess fibers.  Finally, bring your Foam Wing Case forward and tie it off in front of the eye.  Once secured lift the Foam Wing Case and take securing wraps in front of it.  Whip finish the fly.  Clip the foam to approximately the length of the Wing Case.  Your fly is complete and ready to fish.

Shota Jokhadze has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's May 2026 Fly of the Month

 Roly Poly Leach

Hook:  Fulling Mill 5125 Jig Force Short Barbless Hook #12.

Thread:  6/0 Red or Black. 

 Bead:  Slotted Tungsten Metallic Red 3.8 mm.

Tail:  Fulling Mill Chewy Worm Chenille – Medium - Brown.

Body:  Comprised of 3 bumps of material listed below:

Body 1:  Bump of Fulling Mill Ultra Nymph Dub - Psychedelic Dark Olive.

Body 2:  Bump of Fulling Mill Tactical Microflash Dub UV - UV Light Olive.

Body 3:  Dubbing loop formed with a mixture of Body 1 & 2 Dubbing. 

This fly comes from the UK/Fulling Mill.  I love Jig Leach flies. By the way, I ‘test fish’ all the flies I post. This one proved to be very successful so far this Spring (2026). I try to pick flies where the materials needed can be easily substituted for what the tyer has on hand.  For this fly that’s not the case.  The Fulling Mill Chewy Worm Chenille is unique and required for this fly.  I know there’s some similar Chenille’s that are now on the market, but I haven’t tied or fished them.

To tie this fly, begin by placing your Slotted Metallic Red Bead on the hook.  Start your thread behind the bead and create a small thread dam to lock your bead in place.  Bring your thread back down the hook shank.  Capture and tie on your Chewy Worm Material with securing wraps.  The Worm/Tail should extend approximately 4 times the length of the hook shank.

You are now ready to dub the rear 2/3rds of the hook with Dark Olive Ultra Nymph Dub.  To do this take a small clump of dubbing, at it’s middle point, tie it on to the hook shank with a few securing wraps.  Now sweep all the material rearward and lock it in place with wraps in front of the dubbing material.  Repeat this process so that 2/3rds the hook shank is dubbed.  With a dubbing brush stroke all the material rearward.  An alternative to ‘clump dubbing’ is to create a dubbing loop of the material and wrap it forward to cover 2/3rds of the hook shank. 

Use UV Light Olive Nymph Dub to make a dubbing brush for the last third of the hook shank.  After wrapping it to the bead, tie it off.  Whip finish the fly. With a dubbing brush stroke all the material rearward.    

Fly Fish Food has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's April 2026 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Balanced Callibungus

Hook:  Fulling Mill 5045 Jig Force Barbless Hook Size #14

Thread:  6/0 Uni-Thread Waxed Camel. 

Bead:  Copper Tungsten Bead 3.0 mm.

Tail:  Hungarian Partridge.

Ribbing:  Semperfli Tying Wire – 0.2 March Brown.

Abdomen:  Fulling Mill Euro Nymph Flash Dub – Tan UV.

Abdomen Shellback:  Mirage Tinsel – Opal – Large.  Coated with UV Clear Finish.

Thorax:  Fulling Mill Euro Nymph Flash Dub- Dark Hare’s Ear UV.

Legs/Collar:  Hungarian Partridge.

This is a great baetis pattern that looks very buggy in the water.  It’s different than most nymphs that I fish and maybe that’s why it works so well.  Baetis are very elongated and good swimmers. One technique to fish this fly is to give it some very short strips when fishing it.  Although the original pattern calls for using a ‘drop’ bead, I normally use a Slotted Tungsten bead. 

To tie this fly place bead on your hook and hook in your vice.   Start wraps of thread behind the bead and secure it in place with a thread dam.  Bring your thread back to the beginning of the bend of the hook and cut off the tag end of your thread. 

Prepare 8-10 Partridge feather fibers for your tail.  Tie them in at the rear of the hook shank.  They should extend a little less than a hook shank length behind the bend.  Next, tie in your March Brown Wire that will ultimately be used for the rib of the fly.  When you do this, tie it in along the length of the body with the ‘rib’ extending off the rear of the hook. 

Invert the fly with the hook point facing up.  Tie in your Mirage Opel Tinsel so that it extends up from the curved rear of the hook.  It will eventually be pulled forward to create a flash Shellback on the fly.  Create a dubbing loop at the back of the fly for your body.  Bring your thread forward to the Thorax area.  Add Fulling Mill Euro Nymph Flash Dub in Tan UV to your dubbing loop and spin it in place.  With the created Dubbing Loop, wrap it up the hook shank to create your Body/Abdomen.  Tie it off. With a dubbing brush, brush it out to create a buggy look. 

Trim dubbing fibers on the top of the fly with your scissors.  Pull your tinsel over the top trimmed area of the fly and tie it off.  Cut off the butt end.  Now bring your rib forward making open spiral wraps to create a segmented body.  Try not to condense the dubbing on the bottom of the fly.  Take a tiny bit of UV Resin and spread it along the fly Shellback.  Cure it.  Dub a Thorax behind the bead with Fulling Mill Euro Nymph Flash Dub- Dark Hare’s Ear UV. 

Finally, prepare a Patridge feather to serve as the legs of the fly.  Remove the ‘webby’ lower area of the feather.  Trim the tip to create a ‘V’ on the feather.  Lay it behind the bead and on top of the fly so that fibers extend on both sides of the fly.  Give it a few loose wraps.  Adjust it in place and then tie it down with the legs evenly on both sides of the fly.  An alternative to tying the feather in this way is to tie it behind and around the bead ‘wet fly’ style.  Trim the butt end of the Partridge feather off.  To finish this fly, dub a small Collar of Dark Hare’s Ear UV behind the bead.  Whip finish and you’re done.

Fly Fish Food has a great instructional video on how to tie this pattern below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's April 2026 Fly of the Month

 Paul's Olive Ostrich Emerger

Hook:  TMC 2488H in Sizes #18-#22 or curved emerger hook of choice.

Thread:  8/0 Olive. 

Body:  Olive Thread.

Rib:  Strand of Peacock Krystal Flash.

Thorax:  Wraps of Peacock Krystal Flash.

UV Resin:  Solarez Bone Dry

Collar/Hackle:  2-3 wraps of Grey Ostrich Herl.

Do not be misled by photographs of this pattern---these flies are small.  While some anglers prefer not to tie or fish small flies, doing so can significantly improve success during certain conditions, particularly on Connecticut waters.  There are only 3 materials that comprise this fly.  It makes tying a small pattern like this a lot easier.  If you have problems fishing small flies, fish this one under an indicator or what I usually do, as a dropper fly under a dry.

I developed this fly stealing from other small olive emerger patterns.  One of the great things about fly tying is taking your experiences on the water and incorporating them into your flies.  Experiment, see what works for you.  Test out your creations on the rivers and streams.  That’s how this fly came about for me.

To tie this fly start your thread behind the eye.  Lay down a layer of thread deep down the bend of the hook.  Bring your thread back up an eye length behind the eye.  Tie in your strand of Peacock Krystal flash and wrap down to the bend/end of your thread body.  Bring your thread 2/3rds back up the hook shank leaving room for your thorax. 

Rib the body of the fly using open spiral wraps with your Peacock Krystal Flash.  Tie it off but do not cut off the excess ribbing material.  Advance your thread an eye length forward.  With the Krystal Flash, make touching wraps to build up and create a Thorax on the fly.  Remember to leave room for your Ostrich Collar.  Next, coat the body & thorax with Solarez Bone Dry and cure it.  Try not to over saturate the fly when applying the resin.

Tie in the Grey Ostrich Herl behind the hook eye.  Make 2 wraps with your Ostrich, tie it off and cut off the butt end.  Whip finish your fly and it’s done.

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's March 2026 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Dette Caddis

Hook:  Dry Fly Sizes #12-#16.

Thread:  6/0 Tan or Wood Duck. 

Egg Sac:  1 turn of Olive or Chartreuse Chenille.

Body:  Muskrat.

Wing:  Hungarian Partridge feather.

Hackle:  Brown & Blue Dun Hackle trimmed short on the bottom.

This is a classic Catskill Fly.  It was developed to imitate a caddis species that hatches usually in May on the East Coast.  These bugs flutter and skid along the surface of the water.  Try to remember this when fishing this fly.  Sometimes moving your fly or letting it skidder in the water below you can be a very effective technique.  The egg sack at the rear of the body is also a trigger point on this fly.

To start this fly, lay down a thread base along the hook shank.  Next, tie in your Chenille Egg Sac at the rear of the hook shank.  Remove some of the fuzz at the end of the Chenille to expose its center cord.  Tie it in at the end of the hook shank and take 1-2 wraps.  Tie it off and cut off the butt end. 

You are now going to dub the body of the fly.  Create a dubbing noodle with your Muskrat.  Dub the body forward. The rear portion of the body should be heavier      and thicker, tapering down to the front of the fly.  The body should be 2/3rds the length of the hook shank.  This allows you to leave space for your Hackles.  Tie off your dubbing noddle.

 Next, tie your Partridge feather wing to the top of the hook shank.  The wing should extend slightly beyond the bend of the hook.  Clip off the butt end of the feather fibers.  After preparing 2 Hackle Feathers, one Blue Dun and one Brown, tie them in on top of the hook shank.  Wind the first Hackle forward.  It’s recommended that you wrap the Hackle with the thickest stem first.  After ending behind the eye, tie it off.  Next, wrap the second Hackle forward through the first.  After tying it off, trim off the butt ends of the Hackles.  Tie off and whip finish the fly.  Finally, clip the Hackles flat on the bottom.  This allows the fly to sit ‘flat’ on the water, much like an egg laying caddis would. 

Dette Flies has an excellent video below on how to tie this fly:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's March 2026 Fly of the Month

The Gamebird Jig Streamer

Hook:  Umpqua XC400BL Jig hook Size #8.

Bead:  4.6mm Slotted Tungsten Gold. 

Thread:  Red 6/0.

Tail:  Tuft of Black Marabou, Tuft of Brown Marabou & Tuft of Cream Marabou with sparse Gold Flash.

Body:  Tan Lazar Dub.

Throat:  Red Saddle Hackle Fibers or tuft of Red Marabou.

Collar:  Natural Pheasant Back Feathers or .

Hot Spot:  Red Thread behind the bead.

I love fishing with jigged streamers, and this one was one of my top flies this past fall.  Jigged streamers have been extremely productive for me.  I fish them often because it’s easy to convert my Euro-rig from fishing nymphs, to streamers. I simply cut off my nymph tippet at my micro ring, then tie on a heavier tippet to fish a jig streamer. 

To tie this fly begin by placing your bead on the hook and hook in the vice.  Weight is optional on this fly but I’ve found that the 4.6 slotted tungsten bead gets it down very fast.  Begin your thread behind the bead and secure the bead in place with a thread dam.  Now bring your thread down the hook shank to the bend.  Tie in a ‘tuft’ of Black Marabou.  You do not need an entire blood marabou feather. Just a tuft is enough, and it should extend approximately 2 ½ times the length of the hook shank beyond the bend.  Next, tie in a ‘tuft’ of Brown Marabou over the Black.  Next, tie in a ‘tuft’ of Cream Marabou over the Brown.  On each side of your tail tie in 1 strand of Gold Flash-a-bou. 

For the body of your fly create a dubbing loop at your tail tie-in point, then advance your thread behind the bead.  Create a ‘noodle’ in your dubbing loop of Tan Lazar Dub.  Usually, 3-4 bunches of material is enough to fill the dubbing loop.  Spin, then brush your loop creating a nice dubbing brush.  With your dubbing loop/brush, wrap the body all the way up to the bead.  After tying it off, brush your body out.  I use a stiff toothbrush to do this. 

You are now going to tie in your Red Throat which will be tied in on the underside of the fly.  Remember that this fly will fish inverted with the hook point up.  The Throat should extend ½ way down the hook shank.  You are now going to prepare your Pheasant Back Feather for your collar.  Hold the feather by it’s tip and stroke the feather fibers rearward.  Tie the feather in behind the Bead by it’s tip.  Take 2-3 wraps with your feather and tie it off.  Cut off the butt end.  Finally, with your Red Thread create a Red ‘Hot Spot’ behind the bead.  Tie it off and apply a drop of head cement.  

Umpqua Feather Merchants has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's February 2026 Fly of the Month

 Micro Clouser

Hook:  SL-11 H #8.

Thread:  Vevus 100. 

Pseudo Eyes:  White (M).

Belly:  Fly Tyers Dungion SB Pearl.

Wing #1:  Cream & White Bucktail with a mix of FTD SB Pearl Aura Fibers.

Wing #2:  Fly Tyers Dungeon BDG – AW Olive.

Back Flash:  Ripple Ice Peacock.

About a year ago fellow fly angler and friend, Ted Rzepski, gave me this fly.  Ted began using it because the bait stripers have been feeding on the past couple of years have tended to be tiny, less than 2” long.  It’s small size makes it a dream to cast.  I didn’t have a chance to fish it for stripers, but late summer/early fall, I took it to the upper Housatonic thinking it might be a great pattern to fish for small mouth.  I was right.  It resulted in a half dozen ‘smallies’ and 1 trout.  This fall it was one of my go to streamers.  Ted says that he’s caught largemouth bass, rainbows, hickory shad and black seabass on it. All this from a pattern originally designed for stripers.  It is a quintessential ‘cross over’ fly, great in fresh & salt water for a wide variety of species.

In the true sense of the word, this fly is a ‘Micro Clouser’.  It’s very small and should be tied sparsely. It’s not an easy tie.  Dubbing the body is not an easy task with the FTD SB Pearl.  Also, the FTD materials are great, but if you don’t have them on-hand, try comparable colors of Senyo Lazer Dub.  Don’t wonder off too much with alternative materials.  The material composition of this fly make it a fish magnet.

To tie this fly begin by laying a base of thread behind the eye to affix your Eyes.  After making securing wraps, cut off the butt end of your thread.  The eyes should be mounted approximately 2 ‘hook eye' lengths behind the eye.  Use figure 8 wraps to secure them.  Also wrap under and around the eyes.  Add a drop of head cement or UV Resin (and cure) to your thread wraps to increase durability. 

Next, you’re going to dub the body of the fly with your FTD SB Pearl Dubbing.  You may want to use a little dubbing wax to make this a little easier.  With your dubbing noddle create the body from the bend of the hook to the eyes.  Also, crisscross the eyes with your noodle. Invert your fly and prepare a sparse wing of Cream & White Bucktail.  Lay your mix of Cream & White Bucktail on your tying table.  Take a sparse amount of FTD SB Pearl Aura fibers and lay them on top of your Bucktail.  Pick them up, align the Bucktail tips, and roll all the materials together in your fingers.  Tie the prepared wing on in front of the eyes.  They should extend approximately 2 hook shank lengths beyond the bend. 

Prepare a sparse amount of Fly Tyers Dungeon BDG – AW Olive Dubbing to be aligned and tied in over the Bucktail wing. Finally, top this with 10-12 strands of Peacock Ripple Ice. You can also use Peacock Angle Hair as a substitute.  Lock in all the wing materials with securing wraps behind the hook eye.  Whip finish and apply a drop of head cement.

Trout Tornado has an excellent video on hos to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's January 2026 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Jake's Improved Zebra Midge

Hook:  The Fly Shop TFS 2500 Size #14 or Fulling Mills Grab Gape Size #16 (or wide gap hook of choice.

Thread:  Thread Black 6/0.

Bead:   Silver Tungsten 2 mm.

Tail/Shuck:  Midge Mirage Pearl/Opal.

Ribbing:  Fine Copper Wire.

Coating:  Solarez Bone Dry or UV of choice or Hard as Nails.

What makes this Zebra Midge Improved?  Well, there are two modifications that can make this pattern more productive.  First, there are  ‘Wide Gap’ hooks on the market today that will increase your hooking productivity.   Use them!  Second, the ‘Mirage Pearl Shuck’ acts as a beacon for hungry trout.  I also tie this fly in Olive.  That color is a ‘go to’ fly before and during olive hatches.   Drift it with an indicator or trail it under a dry fly.  It’s a great fly that’s super easy to tie.

To tie this fly, begin by placing your bead on the hook.  Place it in the vice.  Start your thread behind the bead and take securing wraps to lock it in place.  Cover the hook shank with a layer of thread.  Next, tie in your Pearl/Opal Merage Tail at the rear of the hook shank.  Trim your Mirage Tail so that it is approximately a hook gap in length behind the fly.  Bring your thread back up behind the bead and tie in your Copper Wire Rib.  Do this with secure wraps back down the body.  Then, use your thread to create a slightly tapered body.  Leave your thread behind the bead. 

Next, take spiral wraps up the body with your Copper Wire.  Tie it off behind the bead and ‘helicopter’ off the excess wire.  Whip finish your fly.  If you so desire you can coat the fly body with UV resin, or what I prefer to do, a coat of ‘Hard as Nails’.

Tim Camissa has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's January 2026 Fly of the Month

 Trout Killer Nymph

(A Pheasant Tail Variation)

Hook:  Curved Nymph/Caddis Hook Size #14. 

Tying thread:   UTC 70 Black.

Bead:  Tungsten Copper Bead 3.0 mm.

Weight:  .020 Non-lead wire.

Shell Back:  White or Yellow Turkey Biot.

Abdomen/Body:  3-4 Pheasant Tail Fibers.

Rib: Copper Ultra small wire.

Thorax:  2-3 Wraps of Peacock Herl or Peacock Dubbing.

Hot Spot:  Red Thread.

This is another variation of a Pheasant Tail Nymph. If you fish heavily presuured TMA’s like I do, sometimes a fly that’s a little bit different can help trigger successful days on the water.  I’ll tie this fly using White, Yellow, and Golden Biots.

To tie the Trout Killer, begin by placing your bead on your hook.  Once secured in your vice, take 8-10 wraps of Non-lead wire around the hook shank.  Slide the wraps up against the back of the bead.  With your thread take wraps behind and over the wire to lock it in place.  Bring your thread down the hook shank down the bend. The thread will cover what will become the body of the fly.

Return your thread behind the bead and tie in your Copper Wire Rib. Wrap it down to the bend of the hook.  Repeat the process tying in a Turkey Biot by the tip.  Again, wrapping down to the bend of the hook.  Next, tie in your Pheasant Tail Fibers by the tips.  The butt ends should extend off the curved back end of the hook.  Return your thread up the hook shank and leave it about a ‘bead length’ behind the bead.

Take your Pheasant Tail fibers and make ‘touching’ wraps forward to create your abdomen.  Tie them off with your thread, then trim off the butt ends.  Next, bring your Turkey Biot forward to create a ‘Shell Back’ on the nymph.  To secure it in place, use your Copper Wire by making spiral wraps around the body and Shell Back.  When you get to your thread location, lift the Biot and take a wrap or two of wire in front of it.  Tie it off and helicopter off the excess wire.  Tie and cut off your thread behind the bead.

Start and secure your Red Thread behind the bead. Take a couple Peacock Herl fibers and tie them in behind the bead.  Take 3-4 wraps to create your Thorax.  Tie and cut off the butt ends.  Now bring the tag end of your Biot forward to create a wing case.  Tie it off behind the bead.  Trim off any excess extending over the bead.  Finally, take wraps behind the bead with your red thread to create a ‘hot spot’.  Whip finish, cut off your thread and apply some head cement if desired. 

Shota Flies has a great video on how to tie this nymph below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's December 2025 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Pink Pheasant Tail

Hook:  Hanak Jig Nymph Hook Size #14. 

Tying thread:   UTC 70 Black.

Bead:  Tungsten Metallic Pink or Hot Pink Bead 3.0 mm.

Tail:  4-5 Pheasant Tail Feather fibers - (Optional-with a tuft of GLO Bright Pink Floss).

Rib: Red or Pink Ultra small wire.

Shell Back: Pearlescent Tinsel, 1-2 strands.

Abdomen: Pheasant Tail Fibers. 

Thorax:  2-3 Wraps of Peacock Herl or Peacock Dubbing.

There are many variations of Pheasant Tail nymphs that you can fish.  This is one of my favorites.

To tie this fly, begin by placing your bead on your Jig Hook.  Secure the bead with touching wraps behind it with your thread.  Work your thread down to the bend of the hook, creating a slender tapered body.  Prepare 5-6 Pheasant Tail Fibers for your tail and body.  Tie them in with the tips rearward with securing wraps.  Take 1 thread wrap behind and under the fibers.  Now, tie in your Red Ultra wire for your rib.  Next tie in a strand of Sulky Pearlescent Tinsel.  I’ve also used Pearlescent Krystal Flash as an alternative.  The Tinsel will act as your Shell Back.

Wrap your thread back up to the bead.  Now wrap the butt ends of the Pheasant Tail fibers forward to create a smooth body/abdomen.  Tie them off and cut off the butt ends.  Bring your Pearlescent Tinsel forward to create a Shell Back (on top of the hook shank).  Tie it off in back of the bead.  Next, counter wrap your Wire Ribbing forward to create a segmented body.  Tie it off and ‘helicopter’ off the excess.  Next, behind the bead, tie in 1-2 fibers of Peacock Herl.  Take 2-3 wraps behind the bead to create a thorax.  As an alternative you can substitute Peacock Dubbing spun in a dubbing loop.  I prefer the natural peacock material whenever I can use it.  Tie off your thorax and whip finish the fly. 

Troutstrike has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's December 2025 Fly of the Month

 Carrot Soft Hackle Nymph

Hook:  Size #12-#14 2X long nymph or wet fly hook.

Thread:  6/0 Uni-Thread in Black or Orange. 

Tail:  Black Hen Hackle Fibers.

Body:  Orange Silk or Floss.

Thorax:  Small Black Chenille.

Hackle:  Brown or Black Hen Hackle.

I love fishing soft hackles and I love fishing flies with Orange features.  It’s a ‘classic’ wet fly that I’ve found particularly effective during sulphur and caddis hatches.  I’ll usually pair it with another wet fly and fish it in tandem.

To tie this fly start your thread behind the eye and lay a thread base to the bend of the hook.  Cut off the tag end of your thread.  Next, tie in your tail of Black Hen Feather fibers.  Use 10-12 fibers and tie them in so that they extend beyond the hook bend a ‘hook gap’ in length.  Wrap your thread forward over the tail butts to create a tapered uniform body. 

Now tie in your Orange Floss.  Tie it in at the front of the body and wrap down to the bend.  Bring your thread back up the shank and leave it approximately 2 ‘eye’ lengths behind the eye.  Wrap and form the body with floss and tie it off with the black thread.  You should have created a nice, tapered body. 

Next, for your thorax, tie in a length of Small Black Chenille.  Take 2 wraps of the Chenille around the hook shank and tie it off.  Cut off the butt end of the Chenille.

Prepare a Black Hen Hackle to represent the legs of the fly.  Strip the bottom feather fibers from the feather.  Tie the feather in, concave side facing down towards the hook. Take some tight securing wraps.  Take 2 wraps around the hook shank while preening the feather fibers rearward.   Tie the feather off and clip off the excess hackle.  Take additional securing wraps while stroking the hackle fibers rearward.  Create a nice, tapered fly head.  Whip finish the head and apply some head cement. 

Savage Flies has a great video on how the tie the Carrot Nymph below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

 

Paul's November 2025 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Sexy Walt's Worm

Hook:  Trout Legend Jig Hook (or Jig Hook of choice), Size #14.

Thread:  70 denier or 8\0 Fluorescent Orange.

Bead:  3 mm tungsten bead, in Silver or color of choice.

Rib:  Pearlescent Krystal Flash or thin Sulky Opalescent Tinsel.

Weight (Optional):  8-10 wraps of .020 lead-free wire.

Body:  Natural Hares-mask dubbing mixed with Antron.

Hot Spot/Collar:  Fluorescent Orange Thread.

Walt's worm was developed in 1984 by a fly tyer named Walt Young of Altoona, PA.  This fly is so simple, yet it’s in my top 5 flies of all time.  Why is it so effective?  Well, it can imitate a variety of things, including sow bugs, scuds, and fresh water shrimp.  It is also an excellent representation of a caddis pupa.  Try tying it in a Natural Hares dubbing and Olive Hares dubbing.  For an alternative ‘Hot Spot’ you can also use Chartreuse Thread.

To tie this fly, insert the hook point into the small hole on the bead.  Slide it forward down the hook shank to the eye.  Next, take 5-10 wraps of lead free wire around the hook shank.  ‘Helicopter’ off the excess wire and slide the wraps against the bead.  This should lock it in place.  Start your thread on the hook shank immediately behind the wire.  Take securing wraps rearward, then cut off the tag end of the thread.  Now take thread wraps over the wire up to the bead and back down the hook shank. Next, tie in your Pearlescent Tinsel.  It should extend beyond the back of the hook bend.  After securing it use your thread to create a smooth ramp up to your wire. 

Now, with your thread back at the bend of the hook, dub a slender dubbing noodle with your Hares Ear/Antron Dubbing.  You can make your own dubbing mixture or purchase one of the many commercial mixtures that are available.  With your dubbing noodle, take wraps forward to create a smooth carrot shaped body.  End it immediately behind the bead.

With your ribbing material, take open spiral wraps up the body of the fly.  Tie it off behind the bead.  Cut off the tag end.  Secure your tying thread with additional wraps and whip finish to create your ‘Hot Spot’.  Finally, cut off the tag end of your thread.  

Tightlinesvideo has a great instructional video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's November 2025 Fly of the Month

 White Estaz Minkie Streamer

Hook:  TMC 5263 or streamer hook of choice, Sizes #4 to #10. 

Tying thread:   Danville 6/0 White or Black.

Wing:  White Rabbit Zonker with barred black grizzly lines.

Body:  White Pearl Medium Estaz.

Throat: Red Saddle Hackle Fibers.

Head: Wraps of Black Danville 6/0 Black, finished with UV Resin, Hard as Nails, or Head Cement. 

I love fishing ‘Bunny Flies’.  Skins come in a variety of colors.  If you so desire, you can add weight to this fly with Bead Heads, Cones, or Dumbbell Eyes.  Please be aware that this can sometimes be a very heavy fly to cast.  The Rabbit tends to hold water, and additional weight may make the fly a little ‘hingy’ when casting.  One way to cut down on this is to shorten your leader.

This is one of my favorite ‘White’ Streamers.  The Estaz makes the belly sparkle, and as with all Zonker patterns, the Rabbit undulates in the water.  I like to tie this fly on a size # 6 streamer hook.  Once your hook is in the vice, start your thread approximately ¼ hook shank behind the eye.  After making securing wraps, cut off the butt end of the thread and wrap down to the bend of the hook. 

Now, prepare your Zonker Strip to length.  The ‘raw hide’ bottom of the Zonker should extend a hook gap length beyond the bend of the hook.  On my streamers, I don’t like to make the tail too long to prevent short strikes.  The Zonker should extend from beyond the bend to the eye.  You’re better off making it longer than shorter.  You can always trim the excess off later.  For the rear tie in point, separate the Zonker Fur to establish a clean ‘tie in’ point.  I find that moistening my fingers helps to separate the Fur.  Next, take 10-12 wraps of thread around the hook shank and Zonker strip.  Lift your Zonker Strip and take a few securing wraps in front of it.  At this point I usually invert the streamer and add a drop of head cement to the rear tie in point.

Next, prepare a strip of your White Estaz for the belly.  Strip some of the flash fibers off the end to expose the string core.  Tie it on the hook shank in front of and against the Zonker Strip.  After securing it, bring your thread 2 eye lengths behind the eye.  Wrap the Estaz forward with touching wraps and tie it off.  Cut off the butt end of the Estaz.  At this point if you are not using black thread, tie off your existing thread off and start your black thread behind the eye. 

After securing the Black Thread, invert your fly.  With 12-14 fibers from a Red Saddle, tie in your Red Throat.  The Throat should extend from behind the eye to ¾ the way to the hook point.  Finally, bring your Zonker Strip forward and tie it in behind the eye.  A critical step in tying this fly is to make sure you have prepared the Zonker Strip to be long enough.  You can always trim off excess.  Create a nice Black Head with your thread.  When done whip finish the Head, cut off your excess thread, and add a drop of Head Cement to the Head of the Fly.

Trident Fly Fishing has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .