Paul's November 2023 Fly of the Month

 Paul's Housatonic Crayfish

Hook:  Size #4 3X long Streamer hook. Can also be tied in larger sizes.

Tying thread:   Brown Uni-thread or 6/0.

Weight:  6-10 wraps of .25 lead.

Claws:  3-4 strands of Pearl Krystal Flash over which are 2 Brown Matched Marabou Feathers.

Antennae:  2 Black Pieces of Krystal Flash.

Thorax/Carapace:  Medium Tan/Brown or Coffee Chenille, topped with 6-8 pieces of Peacock Herl.

Legs:  Brown Saddle Hackle, palmered around the Thorax/Carapace.
Abdomen/Body:  Medium Brown Chenille.

Tail:  Brown Swiss Straw tied behind and on top of the eye and fanned open. Coated with ‘Hard as Nails’.

I developed this fly close to 40 years ago.  It was all due to my lack of expertise fishing for trout and learning to tie flies. I struggled during that spring on the Hous, trying to learn the hatches and patterns that would land trout.  By the time the summer heat arrived I had become somewhat proficient with my casting and was really getting into catching Smallmouth Bass.  At that time fishing for ‘smallies’ was not popular and targeted by only a few fly fishers.  After catching a couple bass with Crayfish hanging out of their mouths, I just had to find a Crayfish pattern to fish on the Housatonic.  What also provoked me to find a Crayfish pattern is that the crayfish population on the river is monstrous.  It’s also one of the primary food sources of ‘smallies’.

Back then, I tried a few crayfish flies, some designed by some famous fly tyers.  They worked but I noticed that flies with more movement were the most productive.  On almost all of those flies the claws were stationary, composed of deer hair or cutout pieces of ‘raw hide’.  I decided to design my own crayfish, using marabou for the claws.  My catch rate improved dramatically. 

One final piece of advice with this fly, crayfish swim fast, with a short darting motion, tail first.  Claws are extended in line with each other.  So, you have to get this fly down deep.  Weighting it with lead is strongly recommended.  You may also need a split shot above the fly.  When fishing this fly, short fast strips, then stopping, can result in hook ups.  Also, there is a technique called the ‘Crayfish Hop’.  Drift or Euro nymph your fly, then with your rod tip, jerk it about 12”.  It’s what most resembles how a crayfish swims. 

To tie this fly, begin by placing your hook in the vice.  Take a few securing wraps of thread behind your eye and cut off the tag end.  You’re going to tie your tail first.  To prepare it, take a 5-6” length of Swiss Straw and fold the first inch over your bodkin.  Fold it over the bodkin 2 more times.  Pinch the 3 folds together to create a fan approximately the width of your hook gap.  Tie it on top of the hook shank directly behind the eye with securing wraps.  It should extend 3 hook eye lengths from the tie in point.  When you tighten down on your wraps, the folds should fan out for your tail.  Adjust the tail/Swiss Straw if needed until your satisfied with its final shape.  Coat the back and front of it with ‘Hard as Nails’.

Next, affix your lead weight to the hook shank.  Take 7-8 wraps at the bend end part of the hook shank, right where the Thorax/Carapace is going to be located.  Bind it down with thread wraps.  Next, off the bend of the hook, tie in 3-4 strands of Pealescent Krystal Flash.  They should be approximately a hook gap in length.  On top of that tie in 2 Brown Matched Marabou Feathers.  The claws should be a hook shank in length off the bend of the fly.  Top that with 2 Black Pieces of Krystal Flash for the Antennae.  They should be 1 ½ times the length of the Marabou Claws.

At the tie in point behind the Claws/Antennae, tie in 6-8 strands of thicker Peacock Herl.  Without advancing your thread, tie in the Brown Saddle Hackle by the butt end.  Trim off the excess.  Next, tie in your Medium Brown Chenille.  It should be at least 6-7” in length.  Take 3-4 wraps forward with your Chenille.  Wrap back over it a couple times to create a bulbous Thorax/Carapace.  Tie it off but do not cut off the butt end.  Now palmer your Saddle Hackle around the Thorax/Carapace.  3-4 wraps should do it, brushing the hackle fibers open with your free hand.  Tie it off and cut off the butt end.  Next, take all the Peacock Herl and pull it towards the tail.  Tie it off with your thread, then cut off the butt ends.  You should still have a segment of Chenille hanging from your hook at the back of the Thorax.  Advance you thread to the tail, then take touching wraps with your remaining Chenille to create the abdomen.  Tie it off at the tail.  Cut off the butt end and whip finish.

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's October 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Black Thread Frenchie  

Hook:  Hanak H XC 400 BL size #16 or Jig Hook of Choice.

Bead:  Silver Slotted Tungsten 3.0 mm 1/8” or size to match hook size.

Body/Thread:  Black UTC Ultrathread 70 Denier.

Tail:  Coq De Leon Pardo 4-6 fibers.

Rib:  Brown Semperfli Tying Wire 0.2.

Coating:  Body & Ribbing coated with UV Resin.

Collar/Hot Spot:  UV Orange Ice Dub.

 

This is a great nymph that can be tied in smaller sizes.  It can also be tied in a variety of colors.  

To tie this fly begin by placing your jig hook and bead in the vice.  Start your thread behind the bead.  Give it a few securing wraps.  Cut off the excess thread.  Wrap your thread down to the bend.  Next, tie in your Coq De Leon Tail.  It should be no longer than a hook shank length beyond the bend.  Cut off the butt ends.  Now tie in your Rib Wire. I like to capture it behind the bead and wrap down to the bend. 

 

Create a uniform tapered body with your thread.  Now wrap your rib forward creating a segmented body.  Tie it off behind the bead and ‘helicopter’ off the excess.  Coat the fly body with UV Resin and cure.  (An alternative is to coat it with ‘Hard as Nails’).   Next dub a sparse amount of dubbing to create a slender dubbing noddle for your Collar/Hot Spot.  Create a Collar/Hot Spot behind the bead.  Whip finish the fly and your done.  

Fly Fish Food has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's October 2023 Fly of the Month

 Hustler Soft Hackle Nymph

Hook:  Umpqua XC400-BN or favorite jib hook in size #14.

Thread:  Black UTC 140.

Bead:  2.8 mm Slotted Gold Tungsten Bead.

Tail:  Coq De Leon dark Pardo Fibers.

Rib:  Opal or Pearlescent tinsel or Flash-a-bou. 

Body:  Hare’s Mask Dubbing or Squirrell Dubbing.

Collar:  CDC in Dark Gray or Slate Dun, formed in a Dubbing Loop.

Head:  Peacock Black Ice Dub.

This fly is a variation of a Hare’s Ear Nymph by a fly fisher named Josh Graffam.  It has some really great features that induce fish to eat it.  It’s tied on a jig hook with a Tungsten Bead.  You can increase the size of the bead depending on the depth you want to fish.  The Opal tinsel gives it some flash and the CDC collar gives the nymph movement when it’s fished. 

To tie this fly, begin by placing your Bead on the hook, and the hook in your vice.  Start your thread behind the bead, take a few securing wraps, cut off the tag end and wrap down to the bend of the hook.   Next, strip & prepare 5-6 fibers of Coq De Leon fibers to tie in for your tail.  They should be approximately a hook shank in length or shorter depending upon your preference.   After you have secured them, cut off the butt ends, then tie in your Opal/Pearlescent Tinsel.  I usually tie it in behind the bead and wrap back down to the bend. 

Next, dub a body & thorax of Hare’s Mask or Squirrell Dubbing.  Dub a tapered body ending just behind the bead, then back off your thread a turn or two.  Now wrap your Opal Tinsel forward to create a segmented body.  Tie it off with your thread and cut the butt end off the hook shank.  Prepare your CDC feather fibers and dubbing loop.  There are commercial tools that can help you do this. I use a household plastic clip to hold the fibers clipped from the feather. I then bring the clip with the fibers to my dubbing loop and spin it.  Now wrap your CDC Dubbing loop around the hook shank 3-4 times, stroking the fibers rearward as you do so.  This should create a nice ‘wet fly’ type collar.  Tie and clip off the remaining loop. Finally, apply a small dubbing noodle of Black Ice Dub behind the bead.  3-4 wraps should do it.  This will help train your CDC Collar fibers to flow rearward.   Whip finish the fly and you’re done.

Fly Fish Food has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month, I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's September 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Albie Whore

Hook:  Mustad 34007 Size #1 or  #2 depending on the Size of Fly to match bait.

Thread:  White, UTC 140 Denier, or White Danville Flat Waxed, or Mono

Tail:  Two White or Tan Saddle Hackle Feathers splayed outward.  Two strands of Pearlescent Krystal Flash on each side.

Body:  Pearlescent Chenille or Estaz in Chartreuse, Pink or Tan.  Flanked by two more Saddle Hackles, splayed outward, the length of the body and tail; with a strip of Lateral Line on each side the length of Body & Tail.  All affixed by a Hot Glue Gun or UV Resin.

Eyes:  Stick on flat 1/8” eyes.

 

This fly was designed by a fly fisher by the name of Richard Reagan.  My preferred color for this fly has a Pink Body.  Although fished mostly for False albacore, it is a great striper fly as well.  There is great debate on whether to use a Hot Glue Gun or UV Resin when tying this fly.  There was no UV Resin when this fly first became popular.  Today, some claim that tying the Whore with a glue gun makes the fly ‘swim better’ and more effectively.  I don’t find that to be the case.  I think this fly is effective period!

To tie this fly place your hook securely in the vise.  Start your thread behind the eyes and make 5-6 wraps.  Cut off the tag end of your thread.  Next, select two shorter White Saddle Hackle Feathers and two more longer Saddle Hackle Feathers.  Strip the fuzzy hackle fibers from the feathers.  The shorter Hackle Feathers should now be about the length of the hook shank.  The Larger Hackle Feathers should be 2 hook shanks in length.  Place them aside for the moment. 

Bring your thread down to the beginning of the bend of the hook.  Using hot glue or UV Resin, place a small drop right where your thread wraps begin.  Affix one of the shorter Hackle Feathers against the drop.  The concave (dull side) of the feather should be facing you.  Repeat the same process on the far side of the hook.  Now make additional thread wraps along the stem.  Cut off the excess stems and return your thread to the base of the tail.  Now take 2 strands of Pearlescent Krystal Flash and tie it in along one side of your Hackle Feathers.  Double it over on the hook shank and repeat the process on the other side.  Trim the Krystal Flash so that it is even with the tips of the Hackle Feathers.  Next, take your Chenille or Estaz and strip off the tip materials to exposé the center string core.  Tie it in at the initial tie in point.  Bring your tying thread up behind the eye.  Make ‘touching’ wraps up the hook shank with your Chenille.  Tie it off behind the hook eye and snip off the excess.  With your scissors, trim off Chenille Fibers on both sides of the hook shank.   Now, take one of your long Hackle Feathers and measure it against the hook shank.  The concave or dull side should again be facing you.  Stroke the lower fibers back with your fingers.  This part of the feather will lay against the side of the hook shank (where you just trimmed your Chenille fibers).  Apply a thin bead of hot melt glue or UV Resin along entire length of the body, then embed your feather in it.  The end of the feather should match the length of the previously affixed shorter Hackle Feathers.  Rotate your vise or ‘flip’ your fly over to repeat the process on the other side of the fly.  Use a bodkin or other tool to make sure the Hackle Feathers are fully seated.  Clip off the excess stems and/or fibers at the hook eye.  Take additional wraps of tying thread to clean up the head area.  

Now add additional beads of glue or resin along the body.  You are going to embed a piece of lateral scale that will run the entire length of the fly.  Repeat the process on the other side.  Trim the Lateral Scale behind the hook eye.  Take additional thread wraps to create a small and uniform head.  Whip finish and cut off your thread.  Apply your stick-on eyes to each side of the fly.  Next, run a bead of Hot Melt Glue or UV Resin over the eyes and along the Lateral Scale on the hook shank. 

Tightlinevideo has a great instructions video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's September 2023 Fly of the Month

 BPS Spent Caddis

Hook:  Dai-Riki 300 or standard dry fly hook in Size #14 to #18.

Thread:  Black, 8/0 or 70 Denier.   

Body:  Peacock Herl.

Wings:  Tan short/fine deer hair or elk hair, cleaned and stacked.

This fly was designed by a Fly Fisher named Dennis Kamatsu.  It is one of my top producing dry flies on the Housatonic.  When I first tied and fished the BPS, I didn’t think it would ‘out fish’ a traditional Elk Hair Caddis, but at times it’s pure magic.  There are two negative issues with this fly.  First, it rides low and flat in the water column, making it difficult to track and see the take.  Secondly, although it's comprised of only two materials, it’s not an easy tie.  It takes a little practice to separate and figure 8 the wings.      

 

To tie this fly, secure the hook in your vice.  Start your thread a ¼ of the way down the hook shank.  Make 5-6 securing wraps and cut off the tag end.  Take 1-3 strands of Peacock Herl (depending on the size of the fly) and tie them onto the top of the hook shank.  Wrap your thread rearward to the start of the bend.  Next, make touching wraps forward with your Peacock Herl behind your tying thread.  Stop making wraps at the ¼ mark of your thread, tie it off with 2-3 wraps of your thread and cut off the tag end.   

 

Next, prepare your Elk or Deer Hair wing.  Cut a ‘wing size’ clump from the hide, pull out the under fur, and stack it in a Hair Stacker.  Now, measure it on top of your hook shank so that it extends almost to the bend of the hook.  Snip the butt ends of your hair off where it aligns with the hook eye.  Move the clump a little rear work so that it now aligns with the rear of the eye.  This whole process is similar to preparing a wing for an Elk Hair Caddis.  Next, make securing wraps to bind down your Wings.  There are a number of ways to do this.  One is to make a few securing wraps and then additional wraps letting your wing rotate 1 revolution around the hook shank.  Whatever technique you use, make sure your wing(s) is bound down securely.  You are now going to separate the wing(s) into two equal halves.  Use figure 8 wraps to splay your wings.  Once the wings are splayed to your liking, use your whip finish tool to make 4-5 wraps.  Cut off your thread.  Add a drop of head cement or Hard as Nails to your thread wraps.  You’re done.

Tightlinevideo has a great instructional video on how to tie this fly below:

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's June 2023 Fly of the Month

 Green Caddis Nymph

Hook:  Size #12-#14 or Curved Nymph Hook of Choice. 

Bead:   Black Nickel Tungsten to match hook size.

Hotspot at Rear of Fly:  Perdigon tinsel in Blue or Silver.

Thread/Underbody:  Chartreuse or Green ‘Stomach Small’ Vevus Thread.

Over-body:  Synthetic Transparent Nymph Skin or Quill coated with UV Resin

Legs:  Partridge Fibers.

Collar:  Dark Rabbit or Squirrel Dubbing.

 

I tied and fished a similar fly on the Housatonic & Farmington Rivers.  I did quite well with it.  This is an improved version of the fly that is extremely durable.  It’s an easy fly to tie with the one drawback, there’s not substitute for the Synthetic Transparent Nymph Skin or Quill’.  So it’s something you have to have in your fly tying supplies.

To tie this fly, place your Bead on the hook and hook in the vice.  Take 4-5 securing wraps behind the bead, then cut off your tag end.  Wrap approximately 1/3 down the bend of the hook.  Tie in your Transparent Nymph Skin or Quill.  Next tie in your Perdigon Blue or Silver tinsel.  Take 3 touching wraps forward and tie it off.  Cut off the tag end.  Now, wrap your Transparent Skin or Quill using touching wraps forward.  End it behind the bead and cut off the tag end.  Coat the body with UV Resin and cure it. 

You are now going to tie in your Partridge Fibers for legs.  Take 4-5 fibers and tie them in on one side right at the bead tie in point.  They should extend half way down the body.  Now do the same with the other side, again tying in 4-6 fibers.  Finally, you are going to dub your collar of dark Rabbit or Squirrel Dubbing.  Create a slim dubbing noodle, then wrap it approximately 3-4 times behind the bead.  Tie off your thread and cut off the butt end.  Your done.

Lucian Vasies has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

 

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .

Paul's May 2023 Bonus Fly of the Month

 Tups Indespensable

Hook:  Mustad 3906B Size #12 or #14 or Wet Fly Hook of                    choice. 

Thread:  Danville 6/0 Yellow.

Tail:  Blue Dun Hackle Fibers.

Rib:  Fine Gold or Copper Wire.

Body:  Yellow Floss.

Thorax:  Pink Rabbit Dubbing

Hackle/Collar:  Blue Dun Hen Hackle.  

This is one of my favorite wet flies for suphur hatches.  It’s an old & traditional pattern that’s fairly easy to tie. 

To tie this fly, start your thread behind the eye.  Make some securing wraps and cut off the tag end.  Bring your thread down to the bend of the hook.  Prepare some Blue Dun Hackle Fibers (5-6) for the tail.  Tie them in.  They should be about the length of the shank.  After your tail is secured, advance your thread ¾ up the hook shank.  Next, tie your Fine Gold or Copper Wire, wrapping it down to the bend.  Bring your thread back up to the ¾ point where you tied in your wire.  Tie in your Yellow Floss using touching wraps as you go down to the bend.  You want to create a smooth underbody for your fly.  Bring your thread back up to the ¾ point.

Wrap your Floss forward, making touching wraps.  Tie it off at the ¾ point.  Cut off the tag end.  Now, counter wrap your Wire, using evenly spaced wraps to create a segmented body.  Tie off and cut off the tag end of your Wire.

Next, dub a thin ‘noodle’ of Pink Rabbit Dubbing for your thorax.  Usually 7-10 wraps will be enough.  Do not overdub your thorax and leave enough room behind the eye for your Hackle.  Prepare your Blue Dun Hen Hackle.  Fold back the hackle fibers leaving the tip exposed for your tie in point.  With the tip extending beyond the hook eye, and the feather lying flat on top of the shank, tie it in with securing wraps.  Once it’s tied in cut off the tip.  Using hackle pliers, wrap your Hackle.  3-4 wraps are all that’s needed.  Tie it off and cut off the tag end.  Whip finish your fly. 

Hughie Graves has a great video on how to tie this fly below:

 

If you have any questions about this fly or would like to submit a Fly of The Month I can be reached at pdinice@frontier.com .